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North Couloir (Engram Couloir) T 
South East Slope T 

North Couloir (Engram Couloir) 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b AI2

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b AI2 Steep Snow [details]
FA: Al Fowler, Dan Eaton, Ron Cale (1972)
Season: Summer, Fall
Page Views: 266
Submitted By: Steve Papagiannis on Jun 18, 2017

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Natalie Brechtel soloing high in the Engram Couloi...

Description 

Following the obvious, steep breach of the montain's north face, this is a steep line offering pleasant exposure, with sustained 60-65 degree snow/ice portions. It stands as one of the steepest couloirs in the High Sierra, save for Ice Nine and Mendel Right. Depending upon the snow year, a bottleneck of rock half way up may involve a few simple mixed moves to surmount. Upon reaching the top of the couloir, either take the 5.6 chimney to the summit. Or drop 40 feet to the other side and enjoy a somewhat exposed, but extremely well-protected, class 4 ramp.

Protection 

Singles up to #2, nuts, 1-2 pickets to manage rope around corners (if neve/Summer conditions), 8-12 ice screws (if climbing in Fall). Crampons, two ice tools.


Photos of North Couloir (Engram Couloir) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: looking up the couloir
looking up the couloir
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt Gilbert at sunrise
Mt Gilbert at sunrise
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt Gilbert at the North Couloir from a distance
Mt Gilbert at the North Couloir from a distance
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the couloir after topping out at the ...
Looking down the couloir after topping out at the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Headed up the couloir
Headed up the couloir
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim going up the first pitch
Tim going up the first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt Gilbert 7/26/2017. Good frozen neve conditions ...
Mt Gilbert 7/26/2017. Good frozen neve conditions ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The North Couloir in late June, 2016.  Photo by cl...
BETA PHOTO: The North Couloir in late June, 2016. Photo by cl...

Comments on North Couloir (Engram Couloir) Add Comment
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By Richard Shore
Aug 31, 2017
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2-3

AI3 according to the Eastern Sierra Ice guide, but High Sierra ice standards are a little soft..

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