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North Chimney 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Andy Fitz, 1988
Page Views: 108
Submitted By: geoff georges on Feb 25, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

You can use chimney technique, or stem around it. Fun route

Location 

at the left of center of north wall. The chimney is the right side of a leaning column that is about 40' right of Microcosm
There is one lonely large fir or pine that survived the fire down slope.
Beware of rattlesnakes, we ran into several on our way, one big one in the middle of the trail.

Protection 

rack to 3", maybe a #4 too. The book describes using anchor on the left- Farewell to Vegas. I think we went straight up to the top.


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By Max Leitner
From: Seattle, Washington
Jun 27, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route was more fun than it looked. Involved a lot of stemming and some chimney moves.There are plenty of horizontal cracks and pockets to place smaller gear then near the top you can place a #4 or #5 in the crack

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