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North Central Variation to the Hart Route 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c PG13 [details]
FA: 1946 Kachina members
Page Views: 1,131
Submitted By: stonemn41 on Dec 11, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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P-1 Climb 130 ft. up a gully-chimney-dihedral system past 3 bolts (1 new, 1/2"x3&3/4" rawl, and 2 old, 3/8" x3/4" sleeve anchors) to an old 2 bolt belay. P-2 Continue up the gully about 40 ft. and clip the 2 bolt anchor at the base of the last pitch on the Hart Route using a 4 ft. runner. [As of December 2011, there is still an active bee hive just left of these bolts. There have been multiple incidents associated with this hive including one fatality. Be advised this probably isn't a good place to stop and belay. An advantage of this variation is less rope drag than combining the last 2 pitches on the Hart Route. A good way to escape this 2 bolt anchor in the event of a bee attack is to fix the end of your rope to these bolts and single line rappel down the gully to safety] Continue climbing the last pitch (60 ft.) of the Hart Route past 2 more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Scramble southwest and descend via the Pedrick's Chimney rappel station.


This climb is located approximately 50 ft. right of the regular start for the Hart Route on the Gargoyle Wall south of the Praying Monk.


medium to large cams and bolts.

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By Roger Goldstein
Dec 11, 2011
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

I had fun on this route as one of my early leads, on the first pitch. The route keeps you well to the right of the bee hive so any cool winter day you should cruise past the bees without worry, it is a good alternative to the traditional Heart route. Good practice placing a few prices of gear too.

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