North Carolina Rock Climbing
Hawksbill Mountain, Linville Gorge
You could probably make a strong case for North Carolina as the home of the best rock climbing in the south. No other southern state has the variety or sheer volume hosted here. From the multi-pitch quartzite of Linville Gorge
, to the eyebrows and hard aid of Looking Glass
, to the exposed granite scarefests of Cashiers Valley, North Carolina has it all.
In addition to great rock and lots of destinations, North Carolina has a reputation for tradition that is not to be trifled with. Most routes in the state were established with ground-up techniques using whatever protection the rock affords, placing bolts only on lead and only when absolutely necessary. Anyone unwise enough to rap-bolt a route will usually come back to find their work erased by the locals.
What this means, at least in anything above an easy-to-moderate grade, is that you need a good lead head if youre going to climb in North Carolina. Long runouts between pro or bolts are taken for granted here, and even moderate and/or well-protected routes can be stout for the grade.
For beginners and new trad leaders, Table Rock
is a great destination. Fun leads in the easy range (5.3-5.5) abound, and theres good opportunities for toproping at the nearby Chimneys
. More experienced leaders will enjoy the airy multi-pitch moderates at the neighboring Amphitheater
in Linville Gorge, or the granite crack climbs of Rumbling Bald
If youre ready to raise the stakes, take a trip to Stone Mountain
, a huge granite dome with great friction climbing and wild runouts. And for the ultimate in NC climbing, head for Whiteside Mountain
or Laurel Knob
; only the seriously adventurous need apply.
There are also numerous bouldering
areas in North Carolina, some of which are world-renowned. The Boone region is host to myriad and historically established bouldering areas. Rumbling Bald has phenomenal bouldering and a wonderful Full Color Bouldering Guidebook
. The Linville Gorge is loaded with boulders and Joey Henson's Linville Gorge Bouldering Map
beautifully illustrates that. Hound Ears
, near Boone, is one of the hosts for the celebrated Triple Crown bouldering competition (unfortunately, that is the only time Hound Ears is open to climbing). Along with these areas Moores Wall, Asheboro, and many other wonderful bouldering locations can be found scattered throughout the Old North State.
The climbing in North Carolina is spread across the state and divided into several distinct regions. From the tobacco fields of the Piedmont to the dramatic gorges in the High Country to the granite walls of the Southern Blue Ridge Mountains; if you are west of Raleigh you are probably close to amazing climbing. See individual areas for directions.
The USFS temporarily closes many areas in North Carolina for Peregrine Falcon nesting. The Carolina Climbers Coalition
does a great job of keeping their site up to date regarding closures.
Also, it seems that the CCC
is always working on opening access to new climbing areas around the state. They have been invaluable in opening areas like Asheboro, Rumbling Bald, and Laurel Knob, just to mention a few. If you climb in North Carolina, think about donating time or money to the cause and/or joining the CCC.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 12.1 miles from here
2,243 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',278],['3 Stars',969],['2 Stars',693],['1 Star',198],['Bomb',5]
Classic Climbing Routes in North Carolina
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in North Carolina
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for North Carolina:
Featured Route For North Carolina
Unwritten Law 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b North Carolina
: The Dump
: The Dump (Routes)
Excellent steep sport climb for the Boone region. Super solid rock and great holds. A good flow of climbing between protection. Hard lunge crux at the very last move off crimps to a large ledge. If you have the guns, clip the anchor and continue onto upper face to another anchor. This extension is called (Ride the Lightening 13b FA. Joey Henson), which rating includes the entire route with extra finish. ...[more] Browse More Classics in North Carolina
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