Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
North Carolina
Select Area...
The Dump 
107 Boulders 
Big Green 
Black Mountain Range Alpine Climbs 
Blowing Rock Boulders 
Bonas Defeat  
Bradley Falls 
Buffalo Creek Park 
Carrboro/University Lake boulders 
Cashiers Area (Ice) 
Cathey's Creek Crag 
Cedar Rock 
Closed 
Cooks Wall 
Corner Rock 
Crowders Mountain 
Dixon School Boulders 
Doughton Park (ice) 
Duke University 
East Slate Rock 
Eno River Boulders 
Holloway Mountain 
Horseshoe Rock 
Laurel Knob 
Lettered Rock Ridge 
Linville Gorge 
Little Wilson 
Looking Glass Rock 
Moore's Wall 
Pickens Nose 
Pilot Mountain 
Pilot Rock 
Raleigh area climbing 
Rocky Face Recreational Area 
Rocky Knob Park 
Rumbling Bald 
Ship Rock 
Snake's Den 
Stone Depot 
Stone Mountain 
Stony Bald 
Sunken Treasure 
Thunder Hill Boulders 
Victory Wall 
Whiteside Mountain 

North Carolina Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.6037, -79.2773 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,170,284
Administrators: Ryan Williams, ShockSLL, Aaron Parlier, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Oct 14, 2006
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [13 people like this page.]
Hawksbill Mountain, Linville Gorge

Description 

You could probably make a strong case for North Carolina as the home of the best rock climbing in the south. No other southern state has the variety or sheer volume hosted here. From the multi-pitch quartzite of Linville Gorge, to the eyebrows and hard aid of Looking Glass, to the exposed granite scarefests of Cashiers Valley, North Carolina has it all.

In addition to great rock and lots of destinations, North Carolina has a reputation for tradition that is not to be trifled with. Most routes in the state were established with ground-up techniques using whatever protection the rock affords, placing bolts only on lead and only when absolutely necessary. Anyone unwise enough to rap-bolt a route will usually come back to find their work erased by the locals.

What this means, at least in anything above an easy-to-moderate grade, is that you need a good lead head if you’re going to climb in North Carolina. Long runouts between pro or bolts are taken for granted here, and even moderate and/or well-protected routes can be stout for the grade.

For beginners and new trad leaders, Table Rock is a great destination. Fun leads in the “easy” range (5.3-5.5) abound, and there’s good opportunities for toproping at the nearby Chimneys. More experienced leaders will enjoy the airy multi-pitch moderates at the neighboring Amphitheater in Linville Gorge, or the granite crack climbs of Rumbling Bald.

If you’re ready to raise the stakes, take a trip to Stone Mountain, a huge granite dome with great friction climbing and wild runouts. And for the ultimate in NC climbing, head for Whiteside Mountain or Laurel Knob; only the seriously adventurous need apply.

There are also numerous bouldering areas in North Carolina, some of which are world-renowned. The Boone region is host to myriad and historically established bouldering areas. Rumbling Bald has phenomenal bouldering and a wonderful Full Color Bouldering Guidebook . The Linville Gorge is loaded with boulders and Joey Henson's Linville Gorge Bouldering Map beautifully illustrates that. Hound Ears , near Boone, is one of the hosts for the celebrated Triple Crown bouldering competition (unfortunately, that’ is the only time Hound Ears is open to climbing). Along with these areas Moores Wall, Asheboro, and many other wonderful bouldering locations can be found scattered throughout the Old North State.

Getting There 

The climbing in North Carolina is spread across the state and divided into several distinct regions. From the tobacco fields of the Piedmont to the dramatic gorges in the High Country to the granite walls of the Southern Blue Ridge Mountains; if you are west of Raleigh you are probably close to amazing climbing. See individual areas for directions.

Access Issues 

The USFS temporarily closes many areas in North Carolina for Peregrine Falcon nesting. The Carolina Climbers Coalition does a great job of keeping their site up to date regarding closures.

Also, it seems that the CCC is always working on opening access to new climbing areas around the state. They have been invaluable in opening areas like Asheboro, Rumbling Bald, and Laurel Knob, just to mention a few. If you climb in North Carolina, think about donating time or money to the cause and/or joining the CCC.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 12.1 miles from here

2,188 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',275],['3 Stars',958],['2 Stars',684],['1 Star',195],['Bomb',4]
['<=5.6',146],['5.7',107],['5.8',173],['5.9',195],['5.10',430],['5.11',409],['5.12',191],['5.13',30],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',55],['V2-3',195],['V4-5',136],['V6-7',79],['V8-9',30],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',13],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in North Carolina

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for North Carolina:
The Prow   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Linville Gorge : Amphitheater
The Mummy   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   Linville Gorge : Amphitheater
North Ridge   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   Linville Gorge : Table Rock
The Great Arch   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face
The Daddy   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   Linville Gorge : Amphitheater
Wailing Wall   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Moore's Wall : The Amphitheater
Second Coming   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Looking Glass Rock : South Side
Fruit Loops   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress
Maginot Line   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain
Zoo View   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   Sentinel Buttress : Circus Wall
Sundial Crack   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 430'   Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area
The Nose   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area
Groover (Gaskin Finish)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches, 900'   Laurel Knob
White Lightning   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Linville Gorge : Table Rock
Dopey Duck   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8")   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall
Frosted Flake   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress
Shredded Wheat   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress
Cornflake Crack   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   Looking Glass Rock : North Side
The Glass Menagerie   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13     Trad, 7 pitches, 900'   Looking Glass Rock : North Side
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in North Carolina

Featured Route For North Carolina
Rock Climbing Photo: GB

Killer Of Giants 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  NC : Linville Gorge : ... : Jolly Green Giant (pinnacle...
This is, in my opinion, an excellent route for the grade, despite some hollow rock in the middle portion of the route. It is very steep and will make even the strongest climbers struggle with the impending forearm pump!Climb past a pin and 3 bolts to a stance. Continue up the arete past gear (including a fixed stainless stopper) and a bolt. Continue up the arete to a bolt/chain anchor.There is a left variation that is easier and moves left at last bolt to the anchors for "They Might Be Giants...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of North Carolina Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Happy Log...
Happy Log...
Rock Climbing Photo: James Ruth on FA of Illusion of Careless Flight  -...
James Ruth on FA of Illusion of Careless Flight -...
Rock Climbing Photo: KK Gregory pulling hard on the perfect sandstone a...
KK Gregory pulling hard on the perfect sandstone a...
Rock Climbing Photo: A nice view of the south face with several climbin...
A nice view of the south face with several climbin...
Rock Climbing Photo: Doc Bayne on one of His Serious Adventures First A...
Doc Bayne on one of His Serious Adventures First A...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hwy. 64 Whitesides Overlook in October
Hwy. 64 Whitesides Overlook in October
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim leading the classic crack five ten 'eh at Ghos...
Tim leading the classic crack five ten 'eh at Ghos...
Rock Climbing Photo: somewhere in Pisgah Forest
somewhere in Pisgah Forest
Rock Climbing Photo: Did somebody say granite?  NC.
Did somebody say granite? NC.
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh Bittner taking the new way up p2 of Hindu Kus...
Josh Bittner taking the new way up p2 of Hindu Kus...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim climbing a sweet roof crack at Gost Town in Hi...
Tim climbing a sweet roof crack at Gost Town in Hi...
Rock Climbing Photo: From Looking Glass looking west.
From Looking Glass looking west.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rumbling Bald Rock Climbs guidebooks are now in st...
BETA PHOTO: Rumbling Bald Rock Climbs guidebooks are now in st...
Rock Climbing Photo: FA on the Hebron Rock Colony Line! Slack Liner: Mi...
FA on the Hebron Rock Colony Line! Slack Liner: Mi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top of Grandmother Mountain, Boone area  ...
Near the top of Grandmother Mountain, Boone area ...
Rock Climbing Photo: FA at secret crag early 1990's
FA at secret crag early 1990's
Rock Climbing Photo: The late Lee Carter on Zen face in Zen canyon.  Go...
The late Lee Carter on Zen face in Zen canyon. Go...
Rock Climbing Photo: Local fauna
Local fauna
Rock Climbing Photo: Marvin pulling the crux of Tunnel of Love (Sams Kn...
Marvin pulling the crux of Tunnel of Love (Sams Kn...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rare route 300' right of Starshine
Rare route 300' right of Starshine
Rock Climbing Photo: Asheboro
Asheboro
Rock Climbing Photo: near whitesides.
near whitesides.
Rock Climbing Photo: FA of  Hebron Rock Colony Line Slack Liner: Mike H...
FA of Hebron Rock Colony Line Slack Liner: Mike H...
Rock Climbing Photo: Close up from wolf/cedar rocks
Close up from wolf/cedar rocks

Show All 32 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on North Carolina Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -