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North Carolina Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apricot Butter T 
Apricot Jam T 
Barnacles & Bo Schwan T 
Bed-wetter T 
Bumblebee Butress T 
Eureka T 
Fire On The Mountain T,S 
Highway to the Danger Zone (aka Rinky Dink Direct) T 
Horse Shoes & Hand Grenades T 
Life is like a rubber rope T 
Lost In Time T 
Mixed Fruit T 
Pansy Wall T 
Rinky Dink T 
Southeast arete (of the Camel) T 
Spectre Man T 
Tarantula T 

North Carolina Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.8868, -81.8851 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,941
Administrators: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Jun 4, 2007
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Christian on pitch 3 of "Lost In Time"

  • All climbing routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed from January 15 and August 15 MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Like the Amphitheater, the main North Carolina Wall overlooks the deep and wide main gorge. This section maintains the wilderness flavor of Linville Gorge, and in contrast to the more beginner-friendly Amphitheater, there are no "easy" lines here. And though route development began more than 35 years ago, there's still lots of potential for hard climbers to carve out more routes on the NC Wall.

    The four-pitch Bumblebee Buttress is a NC Wall classic; if you're ready for harder climbing, hit Tarantula or Rinky Dink (original or direct).

    Getting There 

    From the Table Rock parking lot, head south through the campground and along the ridgeline trail. Continue past the Chimneys to the first cut-off trail to the right; this leads down to North Carolina Wall. If you see a white quartz rock on the trailside where the cut-off trail goes down, you've gone too far; this trail goes to the Amphitheater.

    Climbing Season

    For the Linville Gorge area.

    Weather station 8.8 miles from here

    17 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',7],['5.11',4],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in North Carolina Wall

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for North Carolina Wall:
    Bumblebee Butress   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 450'   
    Apricot Jam   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   
    Tarantula   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
    Lost In Time   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
    Highway to the Danger Zone (aka Rinky Dink Direct)   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
    Pansy Wall   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in North Carolina Wall

    Featured Route For North Carolina Wall
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jon F following the first pitch.

    Pansy Wall 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b  North Carolina : Linville Gorge : North Carolina Wall
    This route climbs the tallest and steepest part of the NC wall. It took quite a while to complete due to hard climbing, poor rock that had to be cleaned (P-1), and poor summer weather conditions, but it's a very worthwhile line for the grade and deserves some traffic.P-1 Start under the right side of the cave feature. Climb the feature past 3 bolts and gear (up to a # 3 camelot). The 3rd bolt is a difficult clip (placed high due to poor rock quality lower). Belay at 2 bolt hanging belay...[more]   Browse More Classics in North Carolina

    Photos of North Carolina Wall Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: NC wall as seen from the Camel
    NC wall as seen from the Camel
    Rock Climbing Photo: Placing a bolt on "Fire On The Mountain"
    Placing a bolt on "Fire On The Mountain"
    Rock Climbing Photo: The NC Wall from the Rock Jock Trail
    BETA PHOTO: The NC Wall from the Rock Jock Trail
    Rock Climbing Photo: The NC Wall
    BETA PHOTO: The NC Wall
    Rock Climbing Photo: Alan H. on Shake and Bake
    Alan H. on Shake and Bake
    Rock Climbing Photo: Doug doing the Rinky Direct
    Doug doing the Rinky Direct

    Comments on North Carolina Wall Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Chris Little
    Jul 13, 2017
    Ahhhhhh... The Bumble Bee Buttress. A true classic. Pushing grade 4, sustained 5.8, long pitches (4 of 'em) GREAT climbing, and high, airy (AERIE,? EERIE? how you Americans say "Eagle's Nest"?) exposure. A true "Climber's route". Not your silly, petty little 3 bolt boulder problem clip-up. I've done this route twice. Once with Dan Flowers, once with Sean Cobourn. I think the first time was w/Sean. I had heard all the usual stories about the traverse and how hard it was. All lies. It turned out that your very best pro went in your very best holds. If you are competent at this level, and enjoy true, alpine type routes, you will have a great time. It's been almost 25 years since I was in Linville Gorge, so things have changed. I don't know if your phone will work in there. It's a long walk in and the trail used to be very hard to follow. If the weather is warm, you can bet on at least one snake encounter. Dan and I used to spend a lot of time at The Gold Coast, and we'd always see them. It seems like every time I went into the gorge, no matter who with, I'd always get back after dark (Except The Ampitheater, of course). Anyway- I highly recommend this route. Oops... this was supposed to go on the Bumble Bee Buttress page, not here. Oh well.. I digressed and started babbling about the gorge. I'd move it to the right page, but it's time for another Martini.

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