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North by Northwest 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Andrew Kulmatiski, G. Page Kyle, 2005
New Route: Yes
Season: spring-fall
Page Views: 63
Submitted By: andrew kulmatiski on Oct 15, 2006

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>

Description 

As you may guess this route can be found on the N by NW corner of the formation. One can scramble up the first 40' slab to belay at a bench or climb this in 2 pitches. Great, well protected climbing in an airy setting.

Protection 

city of rocks rack to #3.
all natural
rap anchor SW of summit.


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By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Oct 16, 2006

What is the rap anchor now? We climbed the east face of this formation a few years back (scary and unprotected 5.8ish or harder, 2 pitches, about 240 feet give or take) and rapped off a stopper we fixed and tied into with a black 9/16" BW climb spec sling. Still there? Rappel was on the SW side and down the routes you look like you've climbed. Nice sends!
By andrew kulmatiski
From: logan, ut
Oct 16, 2006

your gear is the anchor. There is a nut and a black sling. I think we may have backed this up with another sling. We were psyched to get up those lines - all four are great. We also tried the obvious ear feature to the right of 'down and out' but it was a real choss pile full of quano - too bad.

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