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North by Northwest variation 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 380'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 1,035
Submitted By: Mike Reardon on Jul 28, 2012

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I am posting this to see if anyone has done it or knows more info on the route. I have not climbed it, only viewed it while putting up 'Groove Connection' so take the following with a grain of salt
P1,2:Take NBNW. 5.5
P3: trend 15' left of NBNW, Follows 3-4 bolts on a face to NBNW anchors, estimated 5.7




bolts and gear

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By Jon Powell
Mar 9, 2015

I have climbed this route twice. First 2 pitches can be combined with a 70 but be ready for some drag. Third pitch is the crux but it is well bolted. There is actually 5 pitches not 3 but you can also combine the last 2. 5th pitch is super easy. Did it in the pouring rain with no problems. No fixed anchors on the last pitch so use the tree. Hardest part is the approach down to the base of the route. Be ready for some bush wacking.
By .
From: Asheville NC
Nov 23, 2015

I believe we did this variation on the 3rd pitch. Feet turned into marbles very quickly making climbing very difficult, I believe all three in our party fell and none were inexperienced climbers. Kinda a terrifying lead the first bolt is ~25ft from anchors with a slabby smear fall potential. I got suckered right next to an old chopped bolt and needed to down climb resulting in a 4ft slide on my feet, would be better if more people climbed it and the top layer of crap rock an lichen were removed.
By Jon Powell
Dec 15, 2015

Was back on North by Northwest in November. Be careful not to get sucked into the water grooves on the left of the second pitch. Looks like it is easirt terrain but you will end up about 15ft above the last bolt and about 15 ft to the right of it before you realize it. A fall here will suck. Stay under the bolts and you will be fine
By Mark O'Neal
From: Nicholson, GA
Aug 27, 2016

We looked at this today. Didn't see much potential for pro and frankly it didn't look any more fun than the regular line. If you go way left its pretty crunchy. Doesn't seem worth it
By Chuck Parks
From: Atlanta, GA
May 28, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Climbed this one yesterday after getting to the top of P1 of Groove Connection and finding that the water grooves above were running with water. This pitch makes more sense when approached from Groove Connection, and works well as a consolation prize if those upper pitches are wet.

Do the 180 foot gear pitch one of Groove Connection. Out right of the gear belay above the tree you'll find bolted belay anchors specifically for this climb. From that belay you can follow the bolts more or less straight up until the line merges with North By Northwest at the top of its 3rd pitch.

I found a couple of gear placements along the way. A single rack up to a #2 Camalot might not go unused. Nonetheless, even with gear you're going to be facing crux friction moves on exfoliating slab well above protection. It's kind of like playing Russian roulette with your feet! If this route sees more traffic and cleans up a bit, it'll feel tamer. But for now I'd recommend you be solid on 5.9 friction before leading it.
By Mike Reardon
May 29, 2017

Thanks Chuck!

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