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North Buttress Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in North Buttress

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	Beer Gut T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Double Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Family Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Garden Party T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Grand Central T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Hops'n'Barley T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Metal Pecker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Muscle Fat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Party of Two T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Pedestal Center TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Slab Time T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Slab Time Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Small Arch Left Side TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	STD T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

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Elevation:	9,223 ft
GPS:	37.86252, -119.39973 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Vlada Matena on Aug 17, 2015
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. Details

Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.

Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.

Description

The Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Peak is justifiably one of the most well-known and popular climbs in Tuolumne Meadows. Its lesser known sibling, the North Buttress, which was climbed decades ago as evidenced by the remnants of old gear, has languished as little more than a photo-op for hikers on the John Muir Trail. This is finally changing as a result of new route activity started in 2014.

Cathedral Peak is a classic glacial horn with ridges that extend westward (Eichorn Pinnacle) and northward from the summit. The north-trending ridge branches into two parallel ridges, forming a U-shaped cirque that opens up toward Fairview Dome. The eastern and longer of the two ridges is the North Buttress.

The new climbs are located on the west and north sides of this buttress, near its toe. The toe of the North Buttress is only 150 feet from the highly-trafficked John Muir Trail.

The beta for some of the older routes (Muscle Fat and Beer Gut) on the buttress has become available here by the climbers who climbed these routes in the past. The current state of the belay/rappel anchors on these routes is unknown.

Getting There

Follow the John Muir Trail (aka Cathedral Lakes Trail) for 1.3 miles (40 - 50 minutes). The toe of the Buttress is 150 feet from the John Muir Trail (JMT).

GPS: Closest Point of JMT to the Toe of the Buttress: N37.86292 W119.40036

GPS: Toe of the North Buttress: N37.86267 W119.39994

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at North Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 7 ● Garden Party Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 7 ● Family Flake Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 9 ● Hops'n'Barley Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 8 ● Double Down Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 7 ● Metal Pecker Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 7 ● Beer Gut Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 5 ● STD Trad, Alpine
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 7 ● Slab Time Trad, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 34 ● Grand Central Trad, Alpine 6 pitches