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Middle Finger Buttress - Left Side T 
Middle Finger Buttress - Right Side T 
North Ridge T 

Middle Finger Buttress - Left Side 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 08/1971
Page Views: 87
Submitted By: applewood on Jun 12, 2014  with updates from Zachary Winters

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Description 

Middle Finger Buttress - Left Side - 5.10b ** III (4 pitches)
This is the largest and more western buttress above Upper cathedral Lake. Begin in the deep chimney on the left, through what originally was an A1 section then 5.7+ series of dihedrals. Top 3 pitches are mostly 4th class.

Location 

On the face directly above Upper Cathedral Lake.

To descend hike east along the crest to a small col SW of the N Ridge (3rd class gully down the north slope).

Protection 

Wide range of nuts and cams


Comments on Middle Finger Buttress - Left Side Add Comment
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By TheGiles
Aug 9, 2016

B. Herrrington's "Cascade Rock" has good route info for this entire area.

This route goes free at 5.10b - link the opening chimney with the long corner above in one pitch for a fantastic pitch of mid 5.10. The rest of route is roughly 5.7-5.8 and follows much shorter and easier corners more or less on the ridge crest.
By Zachary Winters
From: Mazama, Washington
11 hours ago

A bit more beta than some may want. Don't read if you want the full alpine feel.
P1, 5.10: Two options to start: 1) climb the chimney directly below the corner. Sometimes wet, 5.8 2) climb the #3-4 left facing corner to the left of the chimney. Still a bit dirty, 5.9.
From the grassy bench, enjoy splitter hands to a short crux, then continue through nice stemming and jamming until reaching fun off fingers/tight hands (a bit pumpy). At an alcove, traverse left ~15 feet to a belay (nice to have a numero uno). This belay is 38m above the base of the 5.9 corner start, shorter if you swing to looker's left. Death blocks mid pitch are no longer there.
  • In Cascades Rock, Blake mentions a slung horn to the left as of 2012. The tat is no longer present, and the horn might be gone too.
P2, 5.9: After traversing left from P1 corner, straight up to ledge (formerly had a death block), then back right into another 5.9 corner (continuation of p1 corner system)
P3-4: Choose your own adventure climbing on the ridge crest on mostly 4th class terrain, with 5th class climbing up to 5.8 if you seek out the short splitters.

While the first pitch is the money, it's a great route in a gorgeous setting and worth topping out.

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