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North Basin Headwall Route T 
the Big Corner Complete T 

North Basin Headwall Route 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1100', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Arnold Wexler 1946
Page Views: 1,792
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jul 2, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: North Basin Mt Katahdin from Hamlin Ridge. "...

  • Consult with Park Rangers on climbing policy in such out-of-the-way areas
  • Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit

  • Description 

    TAKE RATING of 5.4-5.5 WITH A GRAIN OF SALT, IT MAY BE VERY "Old School"!
    A very old route that climbs the large corner (see Photo ) which is hidden from view from Blueberry Knoll. Climb the large corner on mostly clean rock, after 4-6 pitches ('modern length pitches') the "Serpent's Head will be reached. (i.e. the large flat area on the "nose". Here best to climb up directly on a ridge (rib) ending on some beautiful Class 4 climbing.
    Intercept the Howe Peaks Trail for descent.

    Location 

    On North Basin of Katahdin.

    Protection 

    Std Rack


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