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Horn Peak
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North Arete T 

North Arete 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 750', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Galen Rowel, Chris Jones, Greg Henzie 1970
Season: Summer
Page Views: 63
Submitted By: Chad N in Central CA on Aug 16, 2016

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The route

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Fantastic route! 1st 2 pitches are 5.7/5.8 knife edge ridge traversing, then 2 more pitches on the headwall that involve good cracks, chimneys and steep bulges. There are a few hard crux moves that felt very full value for 5.8. The cruxes are steep, roof-like bulge moves and hard chimneys in the squeeze size and bigger.

Location 

Start from near Horn Col. Scramble south up class 3 to a big boulder on the ridge filled with white and pink quartz. Rope up here and start the 2 pitches of knife edge ridge traverse.

Protection 

No bolts, build your own anchors. Standard alpine rack, few doubles in the hand and small range. Lots of alpine draws.


Photos of North Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The north arête headwall/ top 2 pitches.
The north arête headwall/ top 2 pitches.
Rock Climbing Photo: Up the P3 chimney. One of the 3 or so crux section...
Up the P3 chimney. One of the 3 or so crux section...
Rock Climbing Photo: On the P1 knife edge ridge.
On the P1 knife edge ridge.

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