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The Rook
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East Face T,TR 
North Arete (unknown proper name) T,TR 

North Arete (unknown proper name) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 12
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 30, 2006

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While the bottom half of this climb is non-descript and uninteresting, the top is very cool. In the transition between, I was eating raspberries growing from a plant on the wall to the right... reaching for them added a crux.
Climb up the very north end of the East Face and pass a bulge with what appears to be an undercling (but is actually rotten rock) and up better stone near the arete. Continue to the arete and to the inside, between the spire and the wall behind it on good square holds. Reach the knife-blade arete, now to your left and climb runout to the summit. This final bit was worn as if it had seen some prior traffic, yet a few folks walking by with the Piana book could not identify it. Can you help?
Descend by simul-rap.


The far right side of The Rook when facing it from down-hill. Up the face, then up the arete to the knife-blade ridge to the summit.


A standard light rack. I got a piece or two, but forget what.

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By el guapo
Feb 23, 2012

did this last summer...thought it was an old Gill route.

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