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North Area

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North Area Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 624'
Location: 38.84386, -92.41275 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,271
Administrators: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dave Hug on Sep 23, 2016
Forecast:
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Geological Features

Description 

The climbing on the North side of Providence

Getting There 

Heading north along the trail, from Providence parking area, look to your right to find the standing Providence Pinnacle Buttress. Walk past the pillar to the north end to access dirt trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.4 miles from here

28 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',2],['5.8',4],['5.9',5],['5.10',8],['5.11',5],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in North Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for North Area:
Battress Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Battress Area
Here's Guano in Your Eye   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   Battress Area
Primal   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Primal Wall
Karp Tool   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 65'   Battress Area
BatManDu   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 45'   Battress Area
St. Stephen   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 65'   Battress Area
Simple Math   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   Battress Area
Smells Like Bat Spirit    5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Battress Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in North Area

Featured Route For North Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Solid crack that sucks up the pro.

Battress Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  Missouri : CM: Providence : ... : Battress Area
I felt the crack was a traditional 5.7 but others feel it is more like a nine. If you climb cracks, this one is a breeze and sucks up pro. The crux is mid way up and involves stemming smears, coupled with intermitten toe jams. Two bolts were placed at the top for rap anchors, or available to use for top rope....[more]   Browse More Classics in Missouri

Comments on North Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Marcus Floyd
Administrator
From: columbia, mo
Dec 13, 2016
The current Providence description above, only describes some of the ascents on the main Providence bluff, just south of the parking area. Near by crag walls have numerous classic ascents, some routes documented as free ascents back in 60's and 70's. Another historical account of a memorable climb up and through the rock was described during the Lewis and Clark adventures. The Providence area has much to offer, while it seems to be just one of the well kept jewels around Columbia, Missouri.

Providence Area: At this time, over a one hundred established routes trace faint white lines up the variety of crags that tower over the Perche Creek and the Eagle Bluffs Conservation ponds, along the Missouri River. The ponds are often filled with ducks, geese, an occasional heron, and regularly surveyed by eagles from above. Ready made game trails see deer, possum, and fox traffic daily as they zigzag the base of many of the rocky cliffs. A good layer of trees offer a great buffer between the yoga stretching climbers and the bikes racing by, on the Katy Trail below. Hardwood foliage, provides shade through the summer months before bursting into warm fall colors. Autumn winds eventually scatter the impressionistic rainbow over the ground, allowing the winter sun to kiss the limestone grey, streak ridden walls by the afternoon. Towards sunset, the breeze seems to calm, the ducks really start to chatter, the still ponds reflect the orange glow of the heavens, and the reality of the days accomplishments truly starts to take hold. The Providence experience is truly like no other.

Rock Conditions: Wow, was the first thought that went through my mind when I first found this jewel. The rock quality is quite good for more than a majority of the routes. Like most of the rock walls, along this stretch of the Missouri River, two horizontal chert bands divide the wall into two or three sections. Pockets of broken chert are just par for the course, in these parts! Belayers should stay alert and always wear a climbing helmet. It's not a bad idea to stand off to one side to avoid all possible rock fall.

Weather Conditions: Most Providence area cliffs receives plenty of sun, year around, so it dries very quick. Plan to experience great climbing conditions spring, fall, and winter, then beat the summer heat by planning to send these lines during the morning hours. Some shade trees provide shelter from the sun at many of the belay areas through the summer.

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