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Norma's Book 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Lowe
Page Views: 4,301
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 25, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: 1) Delay of Game 2) Norma's Book 4) Batwings


This climbs the obvious crack-in-a-chimney just south of Delay of Game. It starts as an easy chimney, but transitions into a nice crack/face climb (depending on your desire). Stemming, jamming, dropknees, face climbing is all utilized on this gem. It eats all sorts of protection. When one achieves the top head south (right) to the anchors.


A standard rack will suffice on this route. However, a 60 meter rope is recommended. 2 ropes are useful for the rappel, or you can hike to the south of the formation for 2 1-rope rappels.

Photos of Norma's Book Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 1) Delay of Game  2)  Norma's Book  4)  Batwings
BETA PHOTO: 1) Delay of Game 2) Norma's Book 4) Batwings
Rock Climbing Photo: A very easy route worth climbing, id say 5.6
A very easy route worth climbing, id say 5.6
Rock Climbing Photo: We walked a quarter of the way up, than built an a...
We walked a quarter of the way up, than built an a...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 4, 2017
By Nathan Fisher
Jul 26, 2004

A 5.6 in the old Bingam book and a 5.5 in the new book. Is it getting easier or could it be that he is mistaken. A 5.7+ might be a little high, (not worth disputing) but a 5.5, give me a break.
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 4, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Okay... how about a happy medium? 5.6 it is then... actually, I don't remember it being that hard, but it was fun. This climb will forever live in my memory, however, as during my lead, making my way up through the wide chimney... stemming and such... a rat stuck its face out and looked me in the eye, I nearly lept off as that was my gut reaction... I am not a fan of rats as it is, but to come face to face during a rock climb, I hope to never have happen again. Okay, 5.6+ if you see the rat!
By vincent pierce
Aug 6, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

No way is this route a 5.5! New leaders beware if you have a book that calls it a 5.5. I'd say it's a hard six. There are two fairly steep sections, one near the middle and one at the top. Still, u have a lot of positve holds and plenty of places for pro. A grreat climb if you have lead a couple pitches before.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 4, 2005

Gotta 5.5....but probably an old school 5.6d..haha. I jumped on this years ago, as a new leader, and worked hard. All there though!
By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Jun 6, 2006

I think its rated at most, 5.6. I'd have no issue if the route was rated 5.5, though.
By Matt Richardson
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 19, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This was my wife's first trad lead. I thought it was an excellent route for the grade (I would definitely call it 5.6) - climbing is varied and maintains your interest.
By Kiri Namtvedt
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jul 6, 2010

5.6 for sure, and utter fun the entire way. Always surprising, but always featured. Loved it.
By oldfart
Sep 2, 2010

I overlooked this route for years - finally did it. I would say it's one not to miss! Thing is killer and uses all the techniques... 5.5, umm... well, put it this way, I was expecting a 5.5 and was taken a bit off guard by how hard it was.
By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
Sep 23, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is an amazingly cool climb that is wonderfully varied in what it requires to climb it. I'd say the crux moves at the top are 5.7 though. There are great holds and you can stem to put in gear, but there's even an bit of an overhanging section.

Some beta:

Climb up on the ledge to belay by using the wide trough next to a big tree growing out of a crack. You'll know the tree because everyone else has used it to climb up, and its bark is worn smooth. If you climb up on to the ledge, and you can't see the climb all the way to the top, then you are in the wrong place.

There is a tunnel at the bottom of the climb. If you want to go through the tunnel you can toss your rope over the top and then pull it back down through and tie in to save some rope drag. The second then has to go over the top (which is equally cool).

There is a great place to build an anchor where you can watch your 2nd right at the top of the last steep section. It is below the last notch that leads to the top of the formation. From this spot, you can easily traverse around the face to the north, to the anchors for Delay of Game, which are on the face, at about the same level. Climbing up the last 15' through the notch doesn't help you, unless you are going to go up and walk across the top of the parking lot rock to rappel off of one of the other climbs.

The gear is great and really varied--you can use all kinds of things. If you are trying to be sparing, we found that we used mostly medium sized pieces and large nuts. There are also several opportunities to sling features. Use long runners on the pieces at the bottom. We used small and medium cams to build the anchor.

Two 50 meter ropes gets you back down to the ledge from the anchors on Delay of Game -- knot the ends, it's 50 meters exactly. A single 70 would require you to down climb about 30 feet. (We measured).
By Hendo Henderson
From: Denver, CO
Jun 17, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fantastic route. A little bit of everything, and lots of choices. Want to attack the near vertical hand crack dead-on, go for it. Want to face climb to the left. Do that instead if you want...Great climb. Definitely worth doing if everything else is busy.
From: Gresham, OR
Jun 27, 2014

no 5.5....likely closer to 5.6...uncomfy slopped belay station...easy to get rope stuck when pulling. not a good first lead. I found it awkward and not that is all there if you search.
By Sarah Lydecker
From: Hood River, OR
Jan 12, 2016

Exceptionally varied route. It feels as if someone just looked at the rock, saw an assorted collection of features, cacti, and rats nests in the corner and decided they would call it "Norma's Book"

As a brand new leader, I found the variety and 185' height to be intimidating and nerve-wracking, but I'm looking forward to coming back to this route next summer.
By sclair
From: SLC, Ut
Apr 24, 2017
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I really enjoyed this route, especially when I thought it was 5.5 and I was moving over steep terrain. Maybe hard 5.6 or easy 5.7 but well protected and fun movement.
By Luke Loeffler
Jun 4, 2017
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Missed the anchor at the very top and used the anchor to Delay of Game which I wouldn't recommend without a directional. Very fun, varied route though

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