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Torre Grande, North Summit
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Normalweg " "Via Normale." T 
East Face "Via Finlandia" T 
Northwest Corner and North Wall T 
Unsorted Routes:

"Normalweg " "Via Normale." 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 530', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: G. Ghedina, et. al., 1880
Season: Warm and dry
Page Views: 127
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Sep 24, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The route is shown to the point at which it curves...

Description 

This route is historically the easiest and enjoyable way of reaching the North Summit. The route finding is somewhat indirect, but it shares the same first pitches with the Normale or "Nuvolau Weg" to the South Summit. Pitch 1 follows a gully system trending towards climber's left, passing some iron rods or "pegs" and to a belay stance. Cemented piton or ring anchor. Squeeze under the enormous chockstone to easy climbing (5.2/5.3) to another fixed anchor. Some climbing in coils or steep scrambling take one to a ledge with a Memorial Plaque, and a short downclimb to a terrace. Climbb through and around some large chockstones in the gully to a 20 foot section of fixed rope leading to climber's left, into the "Labyrinth" of chockstones. Tunnel under one enormous chockstone to arrive at another belay. From here, 2 more short leads up a slab and through gully/dihedral/chimneys to the summit.
Abseil and down climb the route.

Location 

From Rifugio Scoiattoli, the gravel path leads almost directly to the West Summit of the Torre Grande; a climber's path circles left to the gap between towers and the starting point for the climb.

Protection 

All fixed protection, a fixed line traverse, and cemented anchors. Bring a light rack with runners and quickdraws for safety.


Photos of "Normalweg " "Via Normale." Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The formations behind the climber are from Left to...
The formations behind the climber are from Left to...

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By Rodger Raubach
Sep 24, 2014

This climb is popular with beginners and has been climbed frequently by families with children. Not terribly aesthetic, but achieves a worthwhile summit by easy technical climbing.

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