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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Submitted By: Emmett Lyman on Jan 11, 2017

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Follows a blocky ramp up and left along the face (belay either at the lower ledge as for other south face climbs, or from an upper ledge at the base of the corner). Follow a huge left facing corner up to an overhanging wide crack. Two options here - continue up the wide crack at ~5.8 (looks like it would take a #5 C4) or traverse out right on flakes to a bolt, then straight up at ~5.8+. Bolt variation is reminiscent of the P1 crux on Three Doves at the Gunks and while graded 5+ in the book, I found it markedly easier than other 5+ pitches in Frey.

According to the guidebook, this was considered a classic before the bolt was added at the crux. I was happy to have it.


Leftmost line up the south face of El Abuelo.


Standard rack, some small wires to protect the (easy) finishing moves. Easier finish looks like it would require wide gear.

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