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Little Squaretop
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Normal Route 

YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a [details]
FA: M. Shriver, O. Parsons, B. Caldwell and H. Davis 17 January 1953
Page Views: 618
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Nov 2, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Josie Jones on the last 150 ft to the summit. The ...

Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas MORE INFO >>>


The summit of Little Squaretop is a great place to be. Barely large enough for two people, it is just exposed enough to keep you nervous, but not jaw-droppingly exposed where the average adventurous hiker wouldn't ascend it. Getting there requires more scrambling than the popular Normal Route of Organ Needle, but most climbers will find it comfortable without any ropes or gear.


Hike and scramble to the saddle between Organ Needle and Little Squaretop as for the approach to Northwest Ridge. From this saddle head north down a gully to get into the main gully which becomes the North-South passage between Little Squaretop and the Massif. This passage is blacked by a lrage slab. The slab can be surmounted at its far left (north) end via some scrambling on good holds. This gains a ledge with a few large junipers on it. From behind one of the junipers, scramble up a short corner on more good holds to finally get past the slabs. Continue up easier scarmbling until a huge boulder blocks the gully close to the top. The left side under the boulder can be chimneyed up with good security to gain the top of the gully. There is a superb view down the north side of this saddle.

The summit is gained by scrambling up good holds on the east side of the peak. Closer to the top, a few moves up a wide crack gain a small ledge where the summit register is located. From here, a cat-walk heads off to the left for 15ft until you can mantle up onto the summit boulder.


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By Robert Cort
Oct 24, 2011

For those heading north along the ridge towards Squaretop, we added a new rap anchor that makes the awkward rap towards the NW much nicer. I won't tell you how to find it, that's one of the beauties of the Little Squaretop Summit...puzzling out the boulders.

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