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Norisweg T,S 

Norisweg 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 240'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Konrad Oed 1928
Page Views: 33
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Jun 29, 2011

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First ascent in 1928 by Konrad Oed.

Description 

Really fun adventure climbing! This route would get three stars because the actual rock climbing is really good, but it's so heavily vegetated that I can't give it 3 stars.
Since this route reminds me quite a bit of some of the Herb and Jan Conn adventure routes (probably because we lost the piece of paper with the directions on it after the first pitch, but also because it takes some route-finding skills), I'm going to present it in two styles.
Adventure:
You know how to get here. You've seen the picture. Now get up there! Stop reading. Embrace the adventure!
All the beta:
P1 - From the cairn, head out the lower ramp shown in the picture (keep to the left). While there really isn't much for your hands and you're walking on mossy rock, the 'climbing' isn't difficult. Clip the bolt and keep going to the large cave. I didn't explore it but it's large enough to house a mountain lion. Climb up the left side of the cave to get to a cut down tree which you can use as your anchor, or build one below the crack that pitch two follows. (5.3, 55ft).
P2 - Climb the crack, clipping 4 bolts along the way. Option 1: Head left after the 4th bolt and anchor on the bolt next to the super old Wandbuch which shows when the route was first put up. The consequence of this option is that your second MUST climb up through the last bit of the crack to the end of P3 because the belay stance is too small for a change-over. (5.7, 45ft.) Option 2: Continue up through the last part of the crack and head up through the grass and trees to find a thick bolt in the wall. Option 3: Deal with what will likely be a lot of rope drag and tie the two pitches together - continue to the tree under the final dihedral. Consequence of Option 3 - you won't be able to hear each other at all if you do this.
P3 - From the anchor at Option 1, climb the last bit of the crack and continue up and left through steep grass and shrubs/trees to reach a tree below the final dihedral. Anchor here. (5.5, 50ft.)
P4 - The best pitch on this route! Start up the dihedral and clip the bolts on the way! It's a bit of a flared, wide dihedral, so the climbing is a little difficult, but there are good holds and it's well protected. Once you reach the top of the crack, place a sling through a hole in the rock and climb up the next 10 feet to get to the top of this block. Head to the right to find a bolt and continue all the way to the top. Anchor on a tree. (5.8, 90ft.)

Descent: To go home, downclimb off the back side of the formation and head to the right (back toward the fences). To go to another climb like Keilerei, downclimb to the left or rappel from the tree.

Location 

See photos

Protection 

P1 - 1 bolt
P2 - 4 bolts + anchor
P3 - 1 bolt
P4 - 4 bolts


Photos of Norisweg Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The beginning of P2.
BETA PHOTO: The beginning of P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: End of P2, with the really old Wandbuch.
BETA PHOTO: End of P2, with the really old Wandbuch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Norisweg is the yellow route.
BETA PHOTO: Norisweg is the yellow route.

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