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Nordkante (North Arete) 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13 [details]
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Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Jun 16, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

First off, I think the start is WAY harder than 5.5, probably between 5.8 and 5.10something depending on how you do it. Also, as is characteristic with the Frankenjura, the first bolt is pretty high. Then, to further spice it up, the second bolt isn't too bad, but the moves to the third bolt are a bit sketchy and you're above the second bolt. You've got to just be calm and trust that you can do it. After that it's enjoyable, but this is an OLD route, so that's probably where the 5.5 rating comes from.

Location 

On the northernmost corner of the crag. It starts just around the corner from Hexentanz and goes all the way to the top.

Protection 

4 bolts + anchor


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