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Nookie Monster 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Robin Barley, Peter Shackleton
Page Views: 162
Submitted By: Dave Holliday on Aug 27, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>


This is an interesting route that requires a tough pull to get off the ground. After making crux moves to get going, make another hard move to step right to an easier groove, move more easily up to another crux (layback), and finish up on easier cracks. The protection is plentiful and easy to place from good stances.

(The route name and first ascent information were obtained from "Squamish Select" by Marc Bourdon.)


This route is about ten feet right of Libya Sucks and right before a fence demarcating private property. Look for an off-fingers crack at the start with poor feet.


Standard rack. I used medium nuts and cams from a blue Alien to #3 Camalot. There is a bolted rappel anchor at the top.

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By Tess Wendel
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 23, 2017

The 5.10 part of this is the one move off the ground then definitely 5.8 climbing with good pro.
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Sep 30, 2017
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I felt the crux was the stemmy bit in the middle, unless this route is being confused with Libya Sucks.

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