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Wendell Spire
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Noodlers' Nightmare 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: R. M. Wright, 1995
Page Views: 2,746
Submitted By: Dan Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001

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The low angled ramp offers a short easy route with a prodigious amount of bolts. It is really 5.0 until 6' to the anchors.


5 bolts to a double anchor. This route could be safely lead on gear.

Photos of Noodlers' Nightmare Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: That's all six bolts, the ground just out of frame...
BETA PHOTO: That's all six bolts, the ground just out of frame...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sophia, 9, hiking her way up the route.
Sophia, 9, hiking her way up the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Antonio on his first climb in the canyon.
Antonio on his first climb in the canyon.
Rock Climbing Photo: Antonio on the "summit" of Noodlers Nite...
Antonio on the "summit" of Noodlers Nite...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me leading Noodlers Nitemare, right below the &quo...
Me leading Noodlers Nitemare, right below the &quo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me leading Noodlers' Nightmare.
Me leading Noodlers' Nightmare.
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming down after a fun and easy warmup
Coming down after a fun and easy warmup

Comments on Noodlers' Nightmare Add Comment
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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
May 21, 2001

This route was originally bolted, sans rope by RMW. It was intended to provide a very secure place for the beginning leader to get started on the sharp end. Remarkably, shortly after the route was bolted it was led by a member of the intended target user group, a beginner. At the anchor, he and his partner proceeded to epic (a whole 35 ft off the ground!!). In the epic, the leader managed to get completely tied up in his rope, evidently by turning in circles at the anchor ledge. Not content with simple dancing around the rope, he then became completely detached from the double bolt anchor. With a little verbal urging from the ground he eventually reattached himself to the anchor, disentangled from the rope, and was then lowered to the ground. His comment upon landing was "Holy Shit, that was amazing!". Need I say more?
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 11, 2003

An excellent beginner lead route. Maybe 5.3, with one 5.5/5.6 move right below the anchor. I'll be bringing friends here that want to learn how to lead sport routes.
By Sean O'Dell
Jun 3, 2003

I agree...not bad for a little first lead. I'd agree that 5.6 is a way generous rating...most of it would go in tennis shoes w/out thinking twice. Just watch that you don't thwack the old noggen standing up after the last move for the anchors. Turns out there's a bit of an alcove up there. Of course, I suppose I could just be a spaz...
By Marc Stuive
From: Parker, Co
Mar 21, 2010

Great for beginning sport climbers. It is easy, fun, and allows for practice with clipping without the fear factor. Try to stay to the crack at the top without stemming to the wall on the right. Good place to practice running the rope through the achors at the top for a slow lower or rap.
By kevin jenkins
Jul 14, 2010

The frustrating thing about this climb is the location. It is the only route in this area a novice can even fathom, so if you manage to "feed the beast" in a newbie it's a haul out and to another wall... otherwise, great beginner climb fo' sho'.
By Marc Stuive
From: Parker, Co
Jul 14, 2010

It is a great sport for the beginner, glad you enjoyed it. The best way to the Wendell Spire is to park at the South (East) entrance off 83. Park in the furthest lot away, the one with the restrooms. Take the Inner Canyon trail. The trail will lead you down some steps and across a bridge over Cherry Creek. Pass the "phallic rock" that juts up from the trail, and watch for the Wendell Spire on your right. There is a faint trail up the hill (clearly a water way when it rains) a very short distance right to the Wendell Spire wall. Enjoy!
By teece303
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I took my girlfriend and her daughter here. A great climb for the complete newbie. As a lead, this climb is about the easiest bolted route you will find anywhere near Denver, with the exception (perhaps) of that 5.4 on the Catslab in Clear Creek Canyon.

It is (sometimes far) easier than 5.5 until the last move a few feet before the anchor and short enough that height jitters are minimized for the newbie. Beware, though: lowering newbs here is hard on your rope, as they want to stay to the crack on climber's right, but they invariably lose their balance and roll over onto the face on the left, which is brutal on the rope.
By Daniel H. Bryant
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 27, 2014

I was surprised to see cold shuts and quicklinks for the anchors, but with the FA in '95 that was the commonly available hardware then (almost 20 y.o. hardware and was still in decent shape aside from surface oxidation), I set this up to top rope my friends young kids, lowered them to the left.

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