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Noo-Tha S 
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Waterfall Ballet S 

Noo-Tha 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Brad Combs 2009
Page Views: 135
Submitted By: Phil Ippe on Jan 1, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Philippe, finally beyond the crux. May 2013

Description 

Good steep climb, very high with a lot of endurance involved. The crux would be the next few moves after the hueco.

Location 

Just left of Waterfall Ballet

Protection 

10 bolts


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By Franck Vee
4 days ago
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I'm sad to drop a bomb on that route - but I think it is rather dangerous. There's a HUGE midway flake that sounds pretty hollow. Actually the midway hollow flake is composed of multiple also hollow-sounding bits. As usual, difficult to tell how fragile or not it really is... and it's not just that the huge flake sounds hollow - there are bits & pieces around that area that could come done, say football-size stuff. You have to use it to - there's no real way around it. You need to traverse it right to left no matter what, and that will involve a certain amount of laybacking on it...

That being said, it's an amazing route and deserves imo the 4 stars in the book, maybe 5. Really adventurous feeling to it, with cool moves. Better be up to speed with your dynos if you want to pull of the "post-hueco surprise". I think it's overall a fair bit harder than 11c - solid lock-offs and couple long reaches in a solid overhang, and the dyno (not a full dyno but feet's off dynamic move) isn't easy - the hand rail for the launch isn't that good and the feet are odly placed (unless you're, say, about 6' tall).

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