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The Playground
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Flying Circus T,TR 
None Shall Pass TR 
Rusty Python TR 
Six Pack TR 
Stegosaurus! (Full Stem Ahead) T,TR 
Surfin' On Heroin TR 

None Shall Pass 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Submitted By: Dust Diedricksen on Oct 13, 2016

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Description 

Can't climb up the face?.... Then go around at a slightly easier grade. Stem between the 15' (attached) boulder-type feature and the Flying Circus face. At the top of the boulder, reach out to the "Holdy Rail" to traverse the top of the cliff face with your hands (i.e., laybacks and crimps) and thin feet below. Throw a heel hook if you want! Top out at the highest point where a top rope anchor should be set (same setup for Flying Circus).

A starting variation eliminates the crack (between the boulder and the cliff face); instead climb/layback the boulder arete (with your back to Flying Circus) to make this feel more like a continuous highball boulder problem. This leaves you with a single rest before the committing, steep traverse.

Location 

This is on the climber's left of Flying Circus (the far left end of The Playground). Start at the crack between the 15' (attached) boulder-type feature and the Flying Circus face.

Protection 

Top rope. Get ready to swing.


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