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YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
Season: summer
Page Views: 711
Submitted By: Wade on Jul 6, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Climb the corner arete, to the left of Thug Route. It is a closed project, please respect this.


8 bolts.

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By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Jul 17, 2015
rating: 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a

Sent this guy today. I got the impression from several Pass locals that it was "open", so I hope my send doesn't offend anyone. Thanks to Wade for the vision, hardware, and hard work equipping the line.

If you like technical arete climbing, this is a must-do for the Pass. The climb is a classic power-endurance test, with barely a chance to clip between the ground and the high roof (in fact the third clip is one of the hardest "moves" on the route). The crux is a particularly desperate pinching section getting to the 3rd bolt, but there are plenty of hard moves to keep you interested.

The rock was a bit flaky/dirty when I first got on it, but it's cleaned up really well. The movement is excellent, and if not for the bivy-sized ledge 3/4-way up, it might be worthy of 4 stars. FWIW I've been calling it "Captain America".
By Wader David
Jan 19, 2016
rating: 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a

No offense, was a open protect after a year from the tag I left, great job! I like Caption America as the first ascent. One thing extra... I don't think the second bolt was secure, I put a red tag on it, which would mean rated R/X. Just needs to be tighten that's all.
By Wader David
Jan 19, 2016
rating: 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a

I was thinking it might have been 14a, I sandbagged it a bit at 12+, but it was only because I was unsure of the rating, but honestly I thought 13+ or harder.

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