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Woods Quarry
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Diatribe TR 
Don't Stop Now T 
Left Arete T 
Middle Way, The TR 
Non-Friction S,TR 
Quarry Wall TR 


YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 187
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Apr 5, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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PZ Enjoying Non-Friction on a Boulder winter's day...

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  • Description 

    This is for the semi-obscure aficionados. This is a feature that sees little traffic. This scar in the landscape has yielded a few briefly pleasant, 65-degree-angle slab climbs. Approach via the Mesa trail from NCAR or Chataqua. There is a faint trail to its base, not too far from the Mesa Trail.

    This is the leftmost of the routes with fixed protection here.

    Follow small edges up the left side past 4 bolts (all 1/4"). The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. The runout is healthy above the 4th bolt. You can belay off trees above.


    4 QDs, consider screamers, 2 slings for the anchor, 2 ropes useful if you TR this. Per kyle lefkoff, potentially, #7 BD & #6 BD stoppers may work between bolts 1 & 2, 2 & 3.

    Photos of Non-Friction Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: 07-28-03.
    BETA PHOTO: 07-28-03.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown pair of climbers toproping Non-Friction (5...
    Unknown pair of climbers toproping Non-Friction (5...

    Comments on Non-Friction Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Darren O'Connor
    Jan 31, 2005

    The approach to this route made a nice outing on a cold winter day. I found the long gap between bolts 2 and 3 warmed me right up! A small stopper might have fit in a crack between these two bolts, but my smallest Alien sure didn't. The friction was fantastic; even after it snowed/rained, me and my partner were able to toprope it.
    By Frodo
    Apr 25, 2005
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    A great route and a nice little place to get away from the crowds. Climbed here last week and other then the occational hiker coming up for the view we had the place to ourselves. Did not see any poison ivy in the area so not sure what is up with that but that is a good thing. The distance between the second and third bolt is a little bit far for my comfort zone but makes for lots of fun! Also there is a newly bolted route to the right of this one leading up to a two bolt anchor. And if you plan on top roping anything in this area you are going to need two ropes.
    By kyle lefkoff
    Oct 12, 2005
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Place a #7 BD Stopper between bolts #1 and #2, and a #6 BD Stopper between bolts #2 and #3.
    By Joshua Merriam
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 11, 2007
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

    The diagrams/pictures don't seem right. The climb we did was between the indicated (non-friction) line in the picture, and the black streak on the far left side of the wall. It has 4 modern bolts, and goes straight up to the major tree on the left side top. The hardest move is well protected, coming right off the second bolt, but then a significant runnout to the 3rd bolt.

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