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Non-Dairy Screamer 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ??
Season: All Season
Page Views: 324
Submitted By: Pablo-Roberts on Apr 6, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Getting psyched to push through the 2nd of 3 cruxe...

Partially Closed.

Description 

Non-Dairy Screamer is the bolted line two to the right of Thank God (11d). It is a wandering route with many crux traverses and littered with good rests.

Some of the bolts are spaced on this rig. Some of the bolts are also extremely rusted out and may not want to be fallen on.

The original grade of this was 5.11d, but due to broken holds and consensus were proposing 5.12a/-

If you get good conditions, and climb it in the shade it feels on point, in the sun however it may feel harder.

Location 

Second bolted line to the right of Thank God. One route left of Ashes to Ashes (12+)

Protection 

Bolts, rebolting of the 4th/5th bolt should take place.


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By GabrielKoybz
From: Brooklyn
Mar 9, 2017

Someone with a grinder should chop the old bolts that are still sticking out..

Awesome route with multiple cruxes and good rests. one of the better lines in the dells.

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