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Nomad's Cave

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ali Nomad S 
Cave Troll S 
Compassion Fatigue S 
Express Yourself S 
Freaks and Geeks S 
Hard Day Mining S 
Off the Books 
Pizza Dick aka Mother Nature S 
Predator S 
Predator X S 
Roid, The S 
Sleven 
Unknown at Nomad aka Tommy's Hard Route S 

Nomad's Cave Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,250'
Location: 39.739, -105.4155 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,075
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Jan 1, 2001
Forecast:
This Afternoon

38° | 6°
Tuesday

22° | 0°
Wednesday

12° | -6°
Thursday

20° | 9°
Friday

38° | 24°
Saturday

40° | 16°
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BETA PHOTO: Normal stand starts for routes in Nomad Cave. Note...

Raptor Closures - 2016 Tunnel 2 Closure Lifted / Upper Canyon Road closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This cave was once inhabited and now boasts many hard routes, many of which rely on manufactured holds. Despite this, the huge overhanging cave makes for some excellent climbs and a great workout, especially on rainy days. Three 5.12s, and three 5.13s can be found here. Three of the routes use natural holds, and the others utilize some drilled two finger pockets. It is easy to cruise to the cave after warming up on Primo Wall to finish your day with some super hard climbing. Enjoy. The same seasonal information applies as Primo Wall; great in the summer especially if it is rainy, and brutally cold in the winter.

Getting There 

Nomad's Cave is near the top of Clear Creek. Park in a large pullout at 11.3 miles on the north side. This is just past tunnel 6. Often there is a tyrolean traverse in place from this pullout or downstream 100 feet, and if in place this makes the approach easy. Just cross the stream and find the trail to the cliff. If there is no tyrolean, then you should drive another 0.5 miles up the canyon to where the creek crosses under the road. Park in a pullout here (south side) and find the rough trail that heads back downstream on the north side. This trail is good most of the way, but one will encounter some exposed scrambling above cliffs and the creek. Take caution. This trail leads you past the Nomad's Cave on the way to the Primo Wall. If you continue on this trail it will take you to the Crystal Tower farther downstream.

L->R: 

Gully left of Cave

A. Sleven, V11-12.

Cave

B. The Roid, 13-, 1p, bolts.
C. Express Yourself, 13, 1p, bolts.
D1C. Hard Day Mining, 13-, 1p, 30, bolts.
D1C. Compassion Fatigue, 14-, 1p, bolts/pads.
D1. Predator, 12, 1p, bolts.
D2. Predator X, 13-, 1p, bolts.
ED1. Cave Troll, 13+, 1p, 40', bolts, linkup.
EF. Freaks and Geeks, 14-, 1p, bolts. Variation start to G.
FH. Off the Books, V11.
GH. Ali Nomad, 14, 1p, 40', bolts.
H.Unknown at Nomad aka Tommy's Hard Route, 13+, 1p, bolts.
HG. Pizza Dick aka Mother Nature, 12, 1p, bolts.

Climbing Season

For the Clear Creek Canyon area.

Weather station 5.4 miles from here

13 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',2],['5.13',6],['>=5.14',3],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',2],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Nomad's Cave

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Nomad's Cave:
Pizza Dick aka Mother Nature   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Unknown at Nomad aka Tommy's Hard Route   5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Freaks and Geeks   5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Nomad's Cave

Featured Route For Nomad's Cave
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Yake (left) on Express Yourself (5.13a), Be...

Express Yourself 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c  CO : Golden : ... : Nomad's Cave
This is the leftmost chipped route in the cave. A hard boulder problem leads to straightforward pockets and a final crux. This is not be confused with "Hard Day Mining" which is another set of pockets that join it from the right....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Nomad's Cave Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Low start extensions for routes in Nomad Cave. The...
BETA PHOTO: Low start extensions for routes in Nomad Cave. The...
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching Nomad's Cave - can see all routes exce...
Approaching Nomad's Cave - can see all routes exce...
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo beta for the "Nomad Cave Block."
BETA PHOTO: Photo beta for the "Nomad Cave Block."
Rock Climbing Photo: Pullin' on Jimmy's pockets at the Nomad Cave.
Pullin' on Jimmy's pockets at the Nomad Cave.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jordan Gehrig below Predator in the Nomad's Cave.
Jordan Gehrig below Predator in the Nomad's Cave.
Rock Climbing Photo: Predator.
BETA PHOTO: Predator.

Comments on Nomad's Cave Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeremy Monahan
From: Fort Fun, CO
Jun 9, 2003
This place would be kick ass if it weren't for all the bullshit chipping. I would like to meet the guy who put the routes up and give him a hobby. These routes must have taken way too long to be worth doing. Oh well, some people are just assholes.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 9, 2003
Jeremy, the guy's name who chipped the routes is Pete Zoeller. I believe he still lives and climbs in the Boulder area. Go at 'em, boy!!