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Tieranny Roofs
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Nomad 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Kelly Brown
Page Views: 136
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Feb 8, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

A very steep route with a tough crux at the very end.

Stick clip the first bolt, then pull some 5.10 moves past sandy, rotten huecos up a slab to much better rock at the base of the roof.

Follow jugs up and right, make an exciting move to a glued on jug and rest up for the first crux. When ready, set up for a foot-cutting sequence and keep moving right to a slightly disappointing rest below the second crux. Make a long reach for a bad sloper, burl into an undercling, and fire for a huge horn jug below the hard to clip anchors.

This is a great line, with predominantly good rock and interesting movement. I guess most people just keep moving to the main wall and overlook this quality route.

Location 

Just left of Purple People Eater.

Protection 

Bolts and drop through anchors. Bolts in the roof are fixed with old, sun-bleached quickdraws. Be sure to inspect them!


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