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Nobody's Home 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Stuberg and Harrison, 1981
Page Views: 172
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Nov 8, 2002  with updates from Carl Schaefer

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Nearing the end of the pitch and the very cool &qu...

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  • Description 

    This route is about 30 feet downhill from Rush Buick. It's the obvious, right-leaning, thin cracks and shallow, right-facing corners. It starts right behind a somewhat annoying tree that will try to pull you off the initial hard moves.

    This is a challenging route that is much harder than it looks. The angling crack and holds makes it insecure. There are few comfortable rests. You should be good at gear placements. Gear is OK, but not always obvious, and rarely bomber.

    For me the crux was the first 15 feet, perhaps because of the barely adequate gear and the nearness of the ground, but also because the tree nearly pulled me off.

    The rest of the climb continues hard, and you'll find yourself wishing for just one horizontal hold or good jam.

    There's a big surprise at the top (say no more). Rossiter's comment, "...and see if anybody's home" IS meaninful.

    Protection 

    Protections is fair but tricky. Tiny HBs, #0 Metolius TCU at the bottom, up to green/0.75 Camalot. Lots of slings and draws. There are many placements, but few bomber pieces.

    Descent 

    Per Ivan Rezucha: As of 11/8/02, there were slings with rings through a tunnel in the roof of the cave. I didn't like the look of them, so I traversed left and down to the anchor (slings and rings) on Rush Buick and belayed and then rapped from there.


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    Comments on Nobody's Home Add Comment
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    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Nov 11, 2002

    DESCENT: As of 11/8/02 there were slings with rings through a tunnel in the roof of the cave. I didn't like the look of them, so I traversed left and down to the anchor (slings and rings) on Rush Buick and belayed and then rapped from there.
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 8, 2005

    Not bad...but I wouldn't do it again.
    By Frosty Weller
    From: Colorado
    Jul 10, 2008

    We liked this challenging Eldo 5.9 and the "big suprise" at the end... it's worthy. And if the slings are good, the rap anchor through the tunnel is bomb. Much better than the Rush Buick anchor.
    By Mark Roth
    From: Boulder
    May 17, 2009

    This route is short, but has a lot to offer:
    cool location,
    a hard to protect crux,
    steep and pumpy climbing all the way up (with just enough jugs to keep the grade down),
    and of course the nice surprise....
    By Dustin B
    From: Steamboat
    Jan 8, 2011
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

    Spicy.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 30, 2011
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

    The gear at the bottom is solid (purple Camalot), but then gets spotty for a while with a possible groundfall from 10-15' before coming back. Generally speaking, this route is PG-13; there are many individual placements which you are relying on for your safety, as they are sparse and singular - single points of gear failure could be catastrophic. I'm not saying that the gear is intrinsically poor, but you have to have your game hat on. This is not a route to take lightly.
    By Kevin P
    From: Loveland
    Jan 26, 2012
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

    Does not have gear when you want it, but there is gear when you really need it. Like the comment above, the gear is not bomber. Fun route, but I would not lead it again. Be solid at the grade.
    By Wayne Crill
    From: an Altered State
    Mar 5, 2012
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

    HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!

    I thought this pitch climbed much better and much steeper than it appeared from the ground. Totally disagree with SL's guide that it's awkward, but agree with his FUN statement. I thought it was quite interesting and thought provoking. Maybe it was my avoiding the awkwardness, but the way it keeps pushing you right over the steepness for your lower body with fun exposure was fantastic.
    By Eric Klammer
    From: Boulder, CO
    Feb 8, 2015
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

    Great climb that is much more fun than it looks from the ground. Nothing awkward about the climbing with a sustained mix of thin crack and cool face. Pro seemed pretty good to me with some spaced out but generally solid pieces. Offset nuts/cams and a couple of small cams for the end will serve you well. The rap sling is currently nice and new with a fatty rap ring.

    Oh, and nobody's home.

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