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Nobody's Darlings S 

Nobody's Darlings 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 215'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: William Maxwell, Reid Persing
New Route: Yes
Season: spring/fall (desert season)
Page Views: 1,551
Submitted By: Will Maxwell on May 11, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Nobody's Darlings above the Hermit Road and campsi...

Description 

On a wall above the campsite, and above all of the short sport climbs, Reid and I put up a route that we named "Nobody's Darlings." It is an easy 5.10 that goes for two long pitches over 24 bolts. The first pitch is about 115' and starts right off with a slab crux and moves into a hanging flake / layback, it then cruises up some moderate face climbing on perfect crimps. As you move up the bolts start to space out, and the upper crux is a heady bit of crimping that eases up to the first belay. 13 bolts on the first pitch.
From the belay, the second pitch rises through a ramping corner, past two bolts, and mantles onto a ledge. It then moves up onto steeper terrain that finds a well protected crux moving from two nice jugs over a bulge on side pulls and crimps. A short but delicate traverse brings you back left 5 feet and straight upward to the second belay. The second pitch is about 100' and goes at 5.10 with the help of a few little hidden crimps.

Location 

See Beta Photos. This route is a 2 min approach from the campsite.

Protection 

set of QDs and a 60m rope.


Photos of Nobody's Darlings Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: From across the canyon. Climber mid-first pitch.
From across the canyon. Climber mid-first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nobody's Darlings as seen looking east from the ca...
Nobody's Darlings as seen looking east from the ca...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nobody's Darlings route map.
BETA PHOTO: Nobody's Darlings route map.

Comments on Nobody's Darlings Add Comment
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By john bald
Sep 20, 2013

Better have a 70 meter rope for this one.

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