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Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Ben Gilkison & Ryan Daudistel
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,357
Submitted By: Ben Gilkison on Jan 29, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Ben works the roof traverse a couple days before h...

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Description 

Roughly half of this route comprises terrain from the original 2nd pitch of Snow White (aid). Like everything else on the Lower Wall, the rock is impeccable and the moves technical. However, this pitch really stands out because of its incredible variety. First 30 feet is cruiser 5.10ish, then you can literally sit down and gather your wits for the boulder crux; and of course, ogle the panorama of Merchant and Mt. Index. The BP will be vastly different depending on height. I'm barely 5' and used a mono under-cling to access to start holds. Taller climbers 6'+ might utilize an enormous reach. Either way, it is challenging. --- more 5.10 follows to a slabby rest position. Once at the roof, rev up the biceps & dance on across to an exposed perch. Once rested, pop the clutch and switch into crack mode. Punch it high before placing a piece, then hang on till the anchor. This could be more 12+ but according to the Index Decimal System...well, let's say 5.12 and see where the chips fall after some repeats.

Location 

NTAD lies mostly between Tuna Boaters and Tad pole. It shares the same finish anchor with the latter route. The start (bolted anchor with chain) is accessed via the first pitch of Princely Ambitions (to the right) at approximately 2/3 height.

Protection 

This route is mostly bolted, but the final 30 feet follows a flared crack and requires a few finger size pieces. I'd also recommend a couple small wires at the finish. Use long runners just before after during the roof traverse to mitigate drag.


Photos of Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is a topo of NTAD
BETA PHOTO: Here is a topo of NTAD

Comments on Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! Add Comment
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By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Jan 30, 2014

Great job Ben!

For decades, I have looked over at the upper part of this route and imagined doing the moves. But hearing about Greg Olsen working on it a long time ago make me think it was way too hard, so I never ventured. Still is probably too hard for me, but it helps to know it now goes.

I never thought about the lower half. That part looks fun too.
By Ben Gilkison
Jan 30, 2014

Thanks Jon. Last month I ran into Greg on holiday from work in Israel. It was really cool to hear all about his experience on the route back in the day. From Tuna Boaters anchor it is quite easy to TR most of the roof and lower sections. Though it will probably never achieve "popular" status, it is nonetheless a remarkable climb, and worth doing for those who can.
By Ben Gilkison
Aug 27, 2015

Ok, its 11d. Someone should try this. :->

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