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No Zukes 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 470'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA:  McCabe, Swanson, 8/82
Page Views: 536
Submitted By: Steve Blevins on Aug 30, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Steve works past last bolt to Rope a Dope anchors....


Pitch 1: 3 possibilities. a) Direct start up easy crack to ledge below overhanging offwidth. Thrash up awkward offwidth or hump the nose. 5.10b. b) Direct start up same easy crack to ledge then traverse left at ledge and back around to crack to bolted anchors. 5.7. c) Use the 1st pitch of Captain America, work right at small ledge to same bolted anchors as above, above offwidth/nose. Recommended, 5.8, ~ 100'

Pitch 2: Work 5.7 left facing dihedral system with some off width until you can step right on to face and up to bolted anchors 170'

Pitch 3: Conflicting information between published sources available. Our route on 8-23-13: Work up face somewhat left past 3 bolts along line of least resistance, over steepening wall. Above 3rd bolt work up and right to crack system/arete. Crack is good (small pro) but is dirty. Above crack system/arête is a stance followed by another original bolt. From bolt work either straight up face to top out (run out and requires simul climbing) or work up face and traverse right when small right angling dike appears to Rope a Dope anchors (full 60m). Good but spooky 5.9


Next corner system right of Capatain America, right of Song of the Earth.

Rappel Rope a Dope (2 60m ropes) to other obvious anchors. 4 rappels


All 3 belays have bolted anchors. Small (tcu's)to medium cams. Blue cam, probably want 2 for offwidth.

Photos of No Zukes Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve approaches P2 belay. Photo by JustinP
BETA PHOTO: Steve approaches P2 belay. Photo by JustinP

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By Ken H
From: Granite, UT
Sep 4, 2015

I was looking to do some crack climbing and scary slab didn't interest me so I just climbed the first two pitches of this. Warning gear beta:
1) I climbed straight up to the ledge below the offwidth, (.5 C4 before traverse) then traversed left (yellow alien during) about 15 ft, up a slab move (small nut or micro cam) onto another ledge then headed back right, popped up a wide crack (#4 C4) to another little move (#2 C4) to the bolt anchors. 5.8 (100' rap will take you down)

2) Headed into the wide crack. Their was a good amount of veg in this in two spots then you head into some real nice 5.6 climbing. Looking up you'll see your crack is ending and might question what you are doing there. As the crack end you can get some finger sized cam in. Then make a step up onto the slab 5.6 and a few slab moves 5.2 up to the anchors. We rapped from here. We had a 70m and a tagline and had to use the tagline to get down but not but that much. 150' rap

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