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No Way Jose 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Jose Pereyra 1998
Page Views: 646
Submitted By: Anus Herder on Jun 26, 2016

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Climber: J.P. Ouellet Photo by James Q Martin

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Description 

A Black Varnish cliff face split down the middle by this crack!

Location 

At Mile Marker 36 on UT-95. Walk up the eastern side of the road through the rock field to reach the cliff face.

Protection 

Many .5 and .75 sized cams.


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By melonhead
Jan 3, 2017

I found this crack in 1994 and for a while harbored interest in climbing it before I realized it would probably cripple me first. Jose was keen and climbing at his peak back then. He'd tried it a couple of times and it was clear he could soon do it. On the successful day we bouldered lightly for about an hour and went up to it as the first route of the day. Jose sent it first try, placing all the gear. At the time this was as hard as any desert crack and the style of his ascent was impeccable. I've belayed a lot of people on a lot of climbs during my life, and never have I been as honored to be holding the rope as I was that day. Jose's performance was nothing short of inspirational. Those were great days my friend. RIP. We miss you.

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