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No Vacation 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 7 pitches, 600', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Thomas Emde
Page Views: 68
Submitted By: Jon Rhoderick on May 10, 2017

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a variation to European Vacation that climbs better rock in the middle of the tower. Start with the Euro start or test your mettle with the Eye of the Beholder start, which can be linked into the second pitch.

P3: The topo in the guidebook is incorrect, this is a mixed pitch. Head towards a bolt about 30 feet above the belay, it may be possible to place gear in the crack to the left, or a block can be slung. After clipping the bolt head up to a second bolt just above the roof, placing gear to reach it. From here to the top of the tower no trad gear is needed. 5.10b

P4: Follow the bolts, backcleaning the second and extending what you can. The crux is brief and hits at the two closely spaced bolts with an overhang above. Continue up a slab covered in lichen to the 5th pitch belay anchor for Euro Vacation.

Location 

Starts on Eye of the Beholder or Struggle Within.

Protection 

12 quickdraws or so if you're linking pitches 1&2 or 5&6, single rack from .4-1 for the one mixed pitch.


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