No Math Required aka No Vacancy
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Reverence to Mr. Van Horn can be seen at the base ...
This route is just left of Partners in Crime
on the Freeform Wall in Sand Gulch. It is just right of a shallow dihedral/crack.
The route is identified by six glue-in bolts, with washers behind the hangers. The hangers, Kong-Bonati, have "Italy" stamped on the face. A seventh bolt was apparently added later, at the bottom, by an unknown party and has a home-made hanger. The anchors are 1/2 x 4" sleeve bolts with Metolius hangers and quicklinks/chain.
History - the FA party felt the line was a bit squeezed by standards of the day, so they called it "No Vacancy." Glue-ins are messy, so a rag was used to keep things clean. A female climber came by, most curious about the route construction and especially the old pair of underwear used to tidy things up and dubbed the new route, "Tighty Whities."
7 bolts to the anchor - six original, on standard 3/8" hangers; one added later by unknown party, on a home-made hanger.
Entering the business district.
Kat studies the moves to bolt 3.
Three clips into the onsight. Bolt 5 as at top ri...
Topping out on the small buttress to start.
BETA PHOTO: Bolts 2-7 look like this.
Climbing graffiti identifies the start. : /
BETA PHOTO: The route starts by ascending the small buttress a...
|Comments on No Math Required aka No Vacancy
By Brandon Schirm
From: colorado springs, co
Jan 21, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Looking in the Knapp and Thompson guide, this route is "No Math Required" and the FA was Robertson and Romano... just looking to clarify if this is the same route?