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Castle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel T 
Canary T 
Cat Burglar T 
Century T 
Crack of Doom T 
Damnation Crack T 
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 
Das Musak S 
Devil's Fright T 
Hangdog T,TR 
Lucky Charms T 
MF Direct T 
MF Overhang T 
Midway T 
Midway Direct T 
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 
Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 
Old Gray Mare T 
Orange Peel T 
Rainbow Connection T,TR 
Rainshadow Direct S 
Saber T 
Saints T 
Satanic Verses T 
Slim Pickins T 
South Face, Jello Tower T 
Winter Solstice T 

No Such Thing as a Free Lunge 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: Dan Lepeska
Season: Year 'round.
Page Views: 289
Submitted By: Jplotz on Mar 20, 2013

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Having fun above the crux of no such thing.

Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock MORE INFO >>>


No Such Thing as a Free Lunge (NSTFL) is an athletic route up the glass smooth north side of Jello Tower on Upper Castle Rock. The climbing is fairly sustained, with the crux coming about halfway up, surmounting a bulge on crimpy holds and slick, nearly non-existent feet. The protection is decent, and I guess it could be argued that with today's versatile gear, it may not warrant an "R" rating. But I'll leave that up to the hardcores who would know better.
Once through the crux, continue on with thin face climbing and insecure jams to the final fun-as-hell overhanging finish!
Awesome route that took me many top rope laps to figure out.


North facing wall of Jello Tower is where this pitch is located, just to the right of Damnation Crack.


Gear from .4 to 2.5". The hand sized piece can go under the final roof, but not entire necessary. A 2" camalot is mandatory before pulling the crux bulge, as is a .75 camalot after the crux but before the thin face climbing. I found placing a few brass offsets before the face climbing put my mind at ease. I also used a couple offset cams on the initial face leading up to the crux.

Photos of No Such Thing as a Free Lunge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: No Such Thing as a Free Lunge.
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge.

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By kerwinl
Jun 16, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R

For those who dream to dabble with the Lunge, fear not as after initially run out face, the gear becomes plentiful and solid. Having some small offset cams will help early on as the author noted. I found lots of thin, but good gear from the crux on up to where the route rejoins MF Direct. Probably worth a TR lap or two to figure out the powerful crux and where the good gear is.
By TheGiles
Jun 16, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13

I'll echo Plotz and Kerwin regarding the gear - an onsight would be bold, but for those who inspect placements and/or moves on a TR the gear is actually quite reasonable. Only run-out on the (relatively) easier sections. The crux sequence itself is very well protected. Brass offsets were nice to have. Very cool route!