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No Such Thing as a Free Lunge 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: Dan Lepeska
Season: Year 'round.
Page Views: 412
Submitted By: Jplotz on Mar 20, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Having fun above the crux of no such thing.

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Description 

No Such Thing as a Free Lunge is an athletic route up the glass smooth north side of Jello Tower on Upper Castle Rock. The climbing is sustained and the gear finicky.

Location 

North facing wall of Jello Tower is where this pitch is located, just to the right of Damnation Crack.

Protection 

Gear from .4 to 2.5". Offsets useful.


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Rock Climbing Photo: No Such Thing as a Free Lunge.
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge.

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By kerwinl
Jun 16, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R

For those who dream to dabble with the Lunge, fear not as after initially run out face, the gear becomes plentiful and solid. Having some small offset cams will help early on as the author noted. I found lots of thin, but good gear from the crux on up to where the route rejoins MF Direct. Probably worth a TR lap or two to figure out the powerful crux and where the good gear is.
By TheGiles
Jun 16, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13

I'll echo Plotz and Kerwin regarding the gear - an onsight would be bold, but for those who inspect placements and/or moves on a TR the gear is actually quite reasonable. Only run-out on the (relatively) easier sections. The crux sequence itself is very well protected. Brass offsets were nice to have. Very cool route!

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