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No Sleep Til' Campton 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Don McGlone, Matt Tackett, 2005
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 231
Submitted By: TomCaldwell on May 10, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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No Sleep Til' Campton

Description 

Great technical line with only a few moves at the grade.

Start near a tree at a dip in the trail. Make a long move to get established on the iron horizontals. Clip the first bolt and make the easy moves to the last bolt before the roof. Make a difficult traverse to get established in the groove directly below the roof (crux). Make a tricky reach to pull the roof and enjoy the easy slab to the top.

Location 

From the approach trail head left for a few hundred feet until you drop down into a dip. Right as the trail begins to go up again near a tree the route starts. Obvious less than vertical face with several bolts leading to a roof left of the bolt line.

Protection 

11 bolts to a two bolt anchor. A few long draws for the two bolts before and after the roof. 60m to rappel.


Photos of No Sleep Til' Campton Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mary at the crux traverse.
Mary at the crux traverse.

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By highneed
Sep 7, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

First 4 bolts are way easier than they look. From the 4th to the last bolt below the roof is pretty much continuous (10+) with the crux of the route being a hard to decipher sequence right before you get to the clip stance for the bolt.

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