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No Sense of Measure 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 245'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 361
Submitted By: Mark Doliner on May 26, 2013

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First pitch is 150 feet.


The next water streak right of Lava Falls.


Bolted all the way. A little run out between 3rd and 4th bolts--you could maybe place a cam.

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By Mark Doliner
May 26, 2013

I climbed the first pitch of this yesterday. The climbing is fun. It's mildly chossy and mossy, especially as you approach the hanging belay.

I didn't do it, but I THINK you can rap both pitches with a 70m rope. Definitely not with a 60m.
By Dustin Stephens
Dec 31, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Chossy, dirty, fun
By Joe Forrester
From: Palo Alto
Dec 29, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

No need to bring cams. Hard climbing is protected with bolts.
By Tony L
Oct 23, 2016

If this got 100 more ascents it would be great. Maybe someone could drive a Zamboni over it? Just too darn loose in places, esp given it was put up 25 years go. An 11a that calls for optional trad gear is never going to be super popular.

That said, the length makes up for the loose/dirty factor. The 11a section is very well protected. If the 8 mantel scares you, turn around (its really secure, not as bad as Lava Falls runouts). Overall closer bolts than Fava Falls, but not as solid rock.

For the grade, Bandits in Bondage, Power Tools, and Son of Dawn are better.

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