REI Community
search
The Flying Fortress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
42N8 One T 
Hyperventilation T 
New Day Yesterday T 
No Self Confidence T 
No Self Control T 
No Self Respect T 
Thumbs Up T 
Troglodyte Crack T 

No Self Respect 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Roger Linfield & Dennis Yates, Jan. 1984
Page Views: 1,209
Submitted By: AJ on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: View of the route from the base

Description 

This is the left of 2 similar flares in the middle of the south face. Both have sustained hand cracks.

Rap from slings around a boulder above No Self Control (left of the flares). I think one 60m will reach.

Protection 

standard rack, esp hands


Comments on No Self Respect Add Comment
Show which comments
By Vernon Stiefel
Apr 24, 2003

FA: Linfield & Yates, Jan. 1984. Another excellent crack climb (4 out of 5 stars). I didn't think it was significantly more difficult than its neighbor to the right - Josh 5.10c.
By Brian Smith
Mar 8, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Hmmm... I found this to be more of a stem-fest than a jam crack... until the full body squeeze at the top. A very physical climb.
By Roger Linfield
Mar 30, 2006

When Dennis Yates and I did this climb (after removing a large, very loose chockstone on rappel), we rated it 5.10B. We gave it a different name, but Randy's name has stuck.
By Randy
Mar 31, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Actually, the name was (I think) a Leavitt & company name who did a subsequent ascent and named it thinking it a FA. Kinda like Illusion Dweller that way. BTW: what is the official name?
By J Smith
Mar 29, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

One rap with a single 60m rope will get you to a ledge and then a few feet of easy downclimbing gets you to the ground.
By fubar
From: Babylon
Jun 18, 2010

Doing these back-to-back ups the grade, I think. The guidebook says they're the two most "Yosemite-like" cracks in Josh. No wonder no one goes there.
By Richard Shore
Nov 26, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Way strenno! Left-side in, right knee chimney technique worked well to inch through the crux.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About