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No Self Respect 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Roger Linfield & Dennis Yates, Jan. 1984
Page Views: 1,230
Submitted By: AJ on Jan 1, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: View of the route from the base


This is the left of 2 similar flares in the middle of the south face. Both have sustained hand cracks.

Rap from slings around a boulder above No Self Control (left of the flares). I think one 60m will reach.


standard rack, esp hands

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By Vernon Stiefel
Apr 24, 2003

FA: Linfield & Yates, Jan. 1984. Another excellent crack climb (4 out of 5 stars). I didn't think it was significantly more difficult than its neighbor to the right - Josh 5.10c.
By Brian Smith
Mar 8, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Hmmm... I found this to be more of a stem-fest than a jam crack... until the full body squeeze at the top. A very physical climb.
By Roger Linfield
Mar 30, 2006

When Dennis Yates and I did this climb (after removing a large, very loose chockstone on rappel), we rated it 5.10B. We gave it a different name, but Randy's name has stuck.
By Randy
Mar 31, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Actually, the name was (I think) a Leavitt & company name who did a subsequent ascent and named it thinking it a FA. Kinda like Illusion Dweller that way. BTW: what is the official name?
By J Smith
Mar 29, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

One rap with a single 60m rope will get you to a ledge and then a few feet of easy downclimbing gets you to the ground.
By fubar
From: Babylon
Jun 18, 2010

Doing these back-to-back ups the grade, I think. The guidebook says they're the two most "Yosemite-like" cracks in Josh. No wonder no one goes there.
By Richard Shore
Nov 26, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Way strenno! Left-side in, right knee chimney technique worked well to inch through the crux.

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