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No Self Confidence 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dennis Yates and Roger Linfield, Dec. 1983
Page Views: 1,916
Submitted By: AJ on Jan 1, 2002

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No Self Confidence


This is the right of 2 similar flares in the middle of the south face. Both have sustained hand cracks.


standard rack, esp hands

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By Vernon Stiefel
Apr 24, 2003

FA: Yates and Linfield, Dec. 1983. When I climbed this route in the fall of '02 there was an overcammed 3.5 camalot near the top. Great crack climb (4 out of 5 stars). I think 10c is fair.
By Roger Linfield
Mar 30, 2006

This was a very memorable climb for Dennis. After spending most of the day at the Gray Giant, we tried to find a shortcut back to the main trail. By mistake, we stumbled into the broad valley between the Fortress and Flying Fortress, and then looked around in amazement. It was Dennis' turn to lead, and despite the late hour he picked this climb. It was his first ever 5.10 crack lead, but he went up it smoothly. After I followed, we quickly scrambled down, and then hiked out in the dark. His name for the climb was "Back on My Feet Again," celebrating his recovery from major back surgery.
By Randy
Mar 31, 2006

Roger, It would be nice to know these things before the guide is finished. I have no problem changing names (or putting akas). Thanks for posting the story.
By Adam D
From: Los Osos, CA
Mar 31, 2009

I was glad to have a #4 for the short wide spot but it's not essential. Great steep jamming on this climb...a great line.
By fubar
From: Babylon
Jun 18, 2010

I took the 3.5 in 2007 -- it still looks good!
By Richard Shore
Nov 26, 2012

Enduro hands! Maybe not the best choice for a morning "warm-up" climb.
Mar 11, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

I've been climbing in Jtree for over a decade and this is now my new favorite route in the park. If this was near a road the lines would be 15 parties deep every weekend. Best climb in the park that I have done!

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