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No Return 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ed Pearsall, Tom Seibert - 1979
Page Views: 1,579
Submitted By: DaveB on Jun 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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BETA PHOTO: Thankfully past the bulge and into the beautiful d...


Be ready to employ all your crack mojo - fingers, hands, fists! Gain crack from ledge at the right, and commence upward using jams and face holds. Grunt and struggle through widening crack and bulge (crux) to spacious ledge and rest (optional belay here). Continue up beautiful dihedral/finger crack to ledge and anchors.


Where the approach trail meets the wall, you will see a wide crack in black rock. This is No Return. Access crack from ledge to the right.


Small-med-large. Runner(s). Anchors. 60m rope for rap.

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By Sam Stephens
Mar 8, 2010

Anchors were at the top of the dihedral.
By DaveB
Aug 6, 2010

Can a second person please confirm the "new" anchors? (Installed since the route was originally submitted?)

Thank you. Description updated (6-28-13).
By Cody Ison
From: RRG
May 14, 2013

Anchors ARE up at the end of the dihedral, and are postitioned at a good stance ledge.
By Big Ears
Apr 19, 2016

Better than Autumn or Rock Wars
By DaveB
May 3, 2016

"Better than Autumn or Rock Wars" -- Now there's something you don't hear every day!

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