|Type:||TR, 1 pitch, 90', Grade VI|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Jon Crefeld 2009|
|Submitted By:||Byron Igoe on Nov 6, 2013 with updates from kenr|
|Comments on No Rest for the Wicked||Add Comment|
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By jon crefeld
Apr 8, 2014
|Terrific route that can be creatively protected all along, and then you're just above your gear for the big pull at the end. Thoughtful with solid rock.|
Jun 6, 2014
2011 Guidebook start is up the right side of the shark's tooth, then step onto the main face and follow thin crack up and right-ward. Then up to a short ledge, then into an open book and final overhang - (then 15 feet more up sloping rock to the top).
Lots of interesting moves, with two strenuous crux sequences. The obvious notch (almost) at the top requires careful looking and a bit of tricky maneuvering to keep the difficulty from going way above 5.9+ (if all else fails, the "Unrest of the Witches" finish is not as hard).
Top-Rope did not require directionals, but very difficult to set up TR to achieve all of: avoid rope drag, monitor possible abrasion on anchor materials, and belay from the bottom -- to me seemed simplest and quickest to use a static line over 100 feet and some class 4 down-climbing to reach the top of the steeper sections. Or might want to plan on belaying from the top, to avoid rope drag and abrasion of climbing rope or static line.
First crux move is likely much harder for climbers much less than 5ft6inch tall with normal reach.
By Adam Gellman
From: Jersey City
Jun 7, 2015
|Be very careful setting up a top rope. Ropes very easily get stuck in cracks on the route and ledges make it difficult to throw the rope down.|