REI Community
6. The Tower Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Any Which Way But Down/Ex-traction T 
Arrowhead TR 
Back to the Gym TR 
Back to the Wall T 
Crefeld Crank TR 
Dead Tree Dihedral TR 
Ex-traction Slab TR 
In & Out T,TR 
Johnson Route T,TR 
Manticore Dihedral T,TR 
Manticore Face TR 
Manticore Upper Arete T,TR 
No Rest for the Wicked TR 
Ogre Arete T,TR 
Rachel's Crack T,TR 
Red Knob, The T,TR 
Rock Romancer TR 
Rossinator, The TR 
Tower Wall Direct T 
Unrest of the Witches TR 

No Rest for the Wicked 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 90', Grade VI
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jon Crefeld 2009
Page Views: 767
Submitted By: Byron Igoe on Nov 6, 2013  with updates from kenr

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: routes overview Left side Tower Wall A Risky Bear ...


To the left of the obvious corner (Rachel's Crack). Start up the right edge of the shark's tooth. Step onto the main face and follow thin crack up and right-ward. Straight up to a short ledge, then into an open book and final overhang.


Once you can see Tower Wall from the trail, continue ESE to the next tower and hike up toward the crag. At the right side of detached flake about 15 feet high, 20-30 feet left of Rachel's Crack.
41.1449833, -74.1653405


Good trees for a top-rope anchor can be reached by hiking up. Long static lines will be needed between the trees and the edge.

Comments on No Rest for the Wicked Add Comment
Show which comments
By jon crefeld
Apr 8, 2014

Terrific route that can be creatively protected all along, and then you're just above your gear for the big pull at the end. Thoughtful with solid rock.
By kenr
Jun 6, 2014

2011 Guidebook start is up the right side of the shark's tooth, then step onto the main face and follow thin crack up and right-ward. Then up to a short ledge, then into an open book and final overhang - (then 15 feet more up sloping rock to the top).

Lots of interesting moves, with two strenuous crux sequences. The obvious notch (almost) at the top requires careful looking and a bit of tricky maneuvering to keep the difficulty from going way above 5.9+ (if all else fails, the "Unrest of the Witches" finish is not as hard).

Top-Rope did not require directionals, but very difficult to set up TR to achieve all of: avoid rope drag, monitor possible abrasion on anchor materials, and belay from the bottom -- to me seemed simplest and quickest to use a static line over 100 feet and some class 4 down-climbing to reach the top of the steeper sections. Or might want to plan on belaying from the top, to avoid rope drag and abrasion of climbing rope or static line.

First crux move is likely much harder for climbers much less than 5ft6inch tall with normal reach.
By Adam Gellman
From: Jersey City
Jun 7, 2015

Be very careful setting up a top rope. Ropes very easily get stuck in cracks on the route and ledges make it difficult to throw the rope down.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About