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Bear Mountain Picnic Massacre (Original 5.8) T 
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No Questa About It T 

No Questa About It 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dave Baltz, Bruce Doeren, Mark Dalen summer 1978
Season: summer, fall
Page Views: 1,185
Submitted By: Mark Dalen on May 27, 2013

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Looking down on the à cheval arete of the third p...


This 3-pitch moderate is the first route done on the crag. Climbed on an off day while working on Johnny Questa in the summer of 1978, No Questa features fun sections of knobby face & finger to hand-size crack climbing.

P1: Climb a steep dihedral/trough (5.8) then wander up ledges to a shelf of trees.

P2: A short steep hand crack in the left wall (5.9) leads out on the flake. Traverse on handrail & chickenheads then climb cracks & knobs to a groove (5.7) that ends on the broad sloping ledge beneath the final headwall.

P3: Climb straight in finger & hand crack (5.7 or 8), cross the arete & run it out & off right.


Route begins at the toe of the buttress on the east side. The first pitch aims for a horizontal flake visible a hundred or so feet off the ground before heading straight up the arete, finishing with a jamcrack & airy traverse.


Route was climbed using 50 meter ropes & hexcentrics. No fixed pro, none needed.

Photos of No Questa About It Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: No Questa About It
BETA PHOTO: No Questa About It

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By David Baltz
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Jun 14, 2016

From Horak's diary:
P1: Up cracks to an overhanging handjam (5.8) to a large loose-sounding rock, then hand traverse right then handjam right to a short but beautiful 5.9 lieback corner. [dB: beta does not show route up LB dihedral directly below 1st belay]
P2: Up 5.9 hand crack (5.10 says dB)to a flake on face, up to a belay.
P3: Left on face, then up cracks to a large ledge.
P4: Up crack to arête to top.

Single rope rap to bottom. Pro to 3".
By Mark Dalen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 15, 2016

I could've sworn we did it in 3 pitches as shown in the topo ... you led P1, I know, & I led P2 ... maybe Bruce led P3 as in Paul's notes? ... you definitely led the crack/arete pitch ... it's so hard to remember without photos to back it up ... I just remember it was a lot of fun!
By David Baltz
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Jun 18, 2016

I think you're right Mark. We did it in 3 pitches on the FA. When I did it again with Paul, we broke up the 3rd pitch for photo opportunities and to ease rope drag. I definitely have a slide of someone on the 5.9 LB at the end of P1.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Jun 20, 2016

One can traverse in from the right and skip p1, and start with p2 (the steep 5.9 hands that goes to the arete- this is a good feature to pick out- I think if you identify this, the rest of the route-finding will come naturally).

Josh S. and I got as far as roping up for it a few years ago, but decided not to due to weather. (This was before the climb was posted, we didn't know the climb had already been done but should have assumed so. Cool to see what we would have gotten into.) Haven't been back to it.

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