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No Place To Hide 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 340', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gary Anderson, Art Messier
Season: Anything but Summer
Page Views: 1,145
Submitted By: mschlocker on Apr 24, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: No Place To Hide and Holey Moley Overview. El Cap...

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the first two pitches if you are the ~5.8 level. Find a more exciting way to the Holy Moley Ledge to do the third pitch if you are at the ~5.10 level. First pitch is short straightforward trad climbing. Second pitch is low angle frictiony slab climbing. Third pitch is steep and cruxy all the way up.

P1 (5.8, 70 feet): Trad, two bolts, and a few cams, .5-4. You can see bolted anchor from the ground. The only trad climb on the right side that leads to a bolted anchor. Original FA says 5.8, this pitch is probably easier than that.

P2 (5.8, 130 feet): Friction up and right on a bolted slab to the Holey Moley Ledge. Bolted anchor.

P3 (5.10c, 140 feet): Thirteen bolts leads up thin climbing with some lieback moves and a small roof in the middle of the pitch. The pitch wanders slightly to follow weaknesses up the wall. Make sure to have enough draws and an anchor for this long one.

Location 

Right side. Look for only climb without a bolt line to a bolted anchor not too far from the ground.

For third pitch, furthest right climb on the Holey Moley Ledge. Just left of the dihedral with the death dagger. Look for a large undercling at the start to find this climb.

Protection 

A light rack of cams (.5-4 or thereabouts) for the first pitch. 13 draws plus two anchors for the rest. All pitches have bolted anchors. Rap on two ropes or one with more stops along the way.


Photos of No Place To Hide Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul, taking on one of the many cruxes.
Paul, taking on one of the many cruxes.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping down from Holy Moley Ledge.  No Place To H...
Rapping down from Holy Moley Ledge. No Place To H...

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By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 2, 2011

Suggested cams for P1- C4's in .5, .4, and/or 3. Guide says P2 is a 10a, which must be wrong since it definitely felt like more of a cruise than P1. Third pitch is devious, sustained from the very start to the very end. Thin clipping stances, thin holds, and baking on a hot day. Slab skills will help on some of it.