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Emerald City
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No Place Like Home 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: J. Link, J.Baker, 1992
Season: Sunny- Good When Cold
Page Views: 4,882
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (87)
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My friend John Zdor starting up the airy arete. Aw...


One of the finest sport routes in all of the Red, and for that matter, anywhere. That is the reason for my choice for it to be the first one I went back for upon 'homecoming' in Y2K. The name is a great coincidence.
Climb an easy face past a few bolts and move out left onto a steep arete in the sun. Climb past perhaps 10 bolts to the anchors on smaller holds than are common in the red, using the arete frequently for hands and heals.


At the far left end of Emerald City, this steep and tall arete beckons- climb it! This is the last bolted route to the left on this crag.


Nine bolts, plus the anchors.

Photos of No Place Like Home Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the bottom. First bolt is near the x.
BETA PHOTO: View from the bottom. First bolt is near the x.
Rock Climbing Photo: Experiencing the exposer up on the arête
Experiencing the exposer up on the arête
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the steep start to get to that amazing...
Starting up the steep start to get to that amazing...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 18, 2017
By Chris Hirsch
From: Rapid City, SD
May 6, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This route is the best 11c I've done! Super exposed, wasn't any chalk on it when I climbed it (making it very tricky), and there was some strong winds to add to the excitement.

Used up EVERY INCH of a 60m rope to lower.
By sean barb
From: winston salem, north carolina,
Dec 4, 2008

standout route: one for the "best of the Red" lists
By Sam Stephens
May 18, 2010

So good. This route deserves all of the stars it gets. Great exposure, fun moves, and one poorly placed bolt adds to the spice of the route. So, so, so good.
By Branden Michelkamp
From: Salt Lake City
Feb 2, 2011

By far my favorite 11c of the Gorge, first bolt is a bit of a stretch but follow through SUPER EXPOSED, very tall route full 60m needed 70m is ideal.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
May 9, 2011

Gobs of exposure. Loved every second of this thing. Beautiful view from the top. No R rating to this climb.
By Hillbill
From: Indianapolis
Apr 23, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This climb is scary,, long, exposed, and on of the best routs I've ever been on!! I'd say the run-out to the first bold is a good 30ft. or so, which was quite scary but rewarding. Probably the best route in the RED.
By Jon Richard
From: St. Louis, Missouri
Apr 26, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Amazing route! Great exposure, fun moves and perfect rock.... Felt soft for the grade.... Nothing R rated about it. You can bring gear to protect run-out leading to the first high bolt if you so desire.
By Jess H Whitmore
From: Cedarville Ohio
Jun 2, 2015

I used a 70 meter rope and had about 15ft to spare after lowering
By Ivan LaBianca
Oct 6, 2015

Found the actually climbing easier than I expected for the grade. If its at your limit there is potential for some exciting swings but the actual meat of the route is safely bolted. If you aren't comfortable soloing to the first bolt, which is a good 30 feet, bring a large cam or a hex to protect it. Basically you climb easy terrain to a ledge, then climb a few feet on maybe 5.7 mossy rock to reach the first bolt which is place just high enough that you might fall past the ledge all the way to the ground.
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Nov 3, 2015

SSSSsssssoooooooooo question: Are we allowed to climb the left side of the arête?

I sent this today...and right after tackling the initial bulge to gain the steep, bolted right side, I retreated a bit 'round the left side, following well-chalked holds all the way. Bounced straight up the corner to clip the next bolt, but STAYED decidedly on the left side for the next 25ish feet--again following well-chalked (and at times well ticked) holds.

The first thing of it is, all the bolts were well established on the right side. Easy enough to clip--kinda--by reaching around with my monkey arms. But the second thing of it is, climbing that left side hardly keeps company with RRG 11c.

Am I missing something? Is this the softest 11+ in the SE or did I miss must-do moves on the right side?

If not, this thing is 11a at best...
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 3, 2015

TR Hero, to answer your question:
If you can reach the bolts, you are on route.
And it is not unusual for a route to be height or arm-length dependent.
Nice work on climbing it, was it fun?
By Keith Button
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Mar 19, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Protected the first flake with a #4, but unnecessary because the climbing to the first bolt was 5.6. Pretty easy climbing, but some tough, heady clips. Awesome exposure and moves.
By Sean H
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 18, 2017

My last route at the Red for 2016, before heading to my actual home. Amazing route.

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