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No Pigs For Rent 

Hueco: V8+ Font: 7B+

Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V8+ Font: 7B+ [details]
FA: Andy Patterson, August 2015
Page Views: 384
Submitted By: andy patterson on Aug 8, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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No Pigs For Rent starts on the underbelly of the b...


Compression climbing up a beautiful, towering, and richly featured bulge. Sit start very low. Right hand grabs a vertical edge, left hand grabs a cool ramp/edge. First move is a left-hand throw up to a sloper. Pretty hard. Next, huck up and right to an edge (crux). The rest is a mental battle of tricky feet and nerves. Incredible!


On the obvious main boulder.


Two pads are nice. Three are better. You can fall off the top, and it's a long way down.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Top moves of No Pigs For Rent. The height of the b...
Top moves of No Pigs For Rent. The height of the b...

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By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Aug 17, 2015

Grading new problems is always hard. Especially when they are totally new, and you have to clean all the holds, work out the moves, and just plain figure out how the line goes. I'd love some more folks to try this problem, because it's really, really good. Probably about V4/5 from the stand.

The super low start is at least as hard as Dancing Outlaw and She Made Me Do It (both of which have some stretched out, core-intensive moves), and perhaps even a grade harder. Also, the rock was still cleaning up a wee bit, which made things even more difficult. If it is V8, I would say it's solid at the grade. If it's V9, it's probably slightly soft.
By Tim King
Oct 13, 2015

Mega fun problem. Grading is tough, I'd say 8, could clean up quite a bit as well. My sequence sounds a little different, might make things a bit easier:

Do the first left hand move, then bump right hand up to vertical sloper. Left foot goes to left start hold ledge, and move left hand to next sloper. Then you can take right start hold as a heel, and use this position to get the sidepull edge, and bump again to the good sloper rail.

I wanted to search the surround environs a bit more but the flies were insane, for some reason particularly right there. But I'll be back...

Thanks for the work Andy.
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Oct 13, 2015

Thanks for the second ascent, Tim!

Yeah, now that I have some distance, I'm feeling the V8 grade. It was a hard nut to crack, but it really only took a session or two to sort everything out (including cleaning). I did Bandito a few weeks ago, which I consider benchmark V9 for SB, and this line doesn't feel as hard.

Tim, your beta sounds solid. I tried that method, but it didn't quite suit me. Either way, aren't those bottom moves insane! Ah, so good. Go back, please. There are some great lines waiting to be climbed.

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