REI Community
a1. The Uberfall - left
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
69 T 
Apoplexy T 
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 
Black Fly T 
Brat Direct, The T 
Bridal Path T 
Bunny T 
Cordelette Arete T 
Coronary T,TR 
Dirty Gerdie T 
Double Chin T 
Double Clutch T 
Easy Keyhole T 
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 
Eyebrow T 
Fancy Idiot T 
Handy Andy T 
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 
Herdie Gerdie T 
Horseman T 
Katzenjammer T 
Keyhole T 
Lower Eaves T 
Nice 5.9 Climb T 
Nice Crack Climb T 
No Picnic T 
No Solution T,TR 
Nosedive T 
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 
Pony Express T 
Red Cabbage T 
Red Cabbage Right T 
Retribution T 
Shit or Go Blind T 
Short and Simple T 
Short Job T,TR 
Sonja T 
Stupid Crack T 
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 
Sudoriferous T 
Susie K. Block, The T 
Trust Jesus T 
Zoomulator T 
Unsorted Routes:

No Picnic 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Will Crowther and Gardiner Perry (1950s)
Page Views: 5,232
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008  with updates from Kurtz

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (125)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
At the belay ledge after No Picnic.


Hard for the grade. The original route is different and was graded 5.4. As described, the route avoids some loose rock.

Climb the low-angle slab and corner to blocks, then move right and up to an overhang, passing the hang just left of a thin crack (crux), sometimes dirty from sand after rains, to a stance, then up to the bolted belay next to the tree.


At the top of a rock slope, about 25 feet left of the Gerdie Block and about 60 feet up from the Carriage Road.


Guide book says G, but the placing gear is strenuous at the crux (for the grade) and there is some loose rock.

Photos of No Picnic Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: My little guy trying hard and cleaning the pitch a...
My little guy trying hard and cleaning the pitch a...
Rock Climbing Photo: This climb is kinda like a mini Madame G.
This climb is kinda like a mini Madame G.
Rock Climbing Photo: No Picnic
No Picnic
Rock Climbing Photo: No Picnic
Rock Climbing Photo: No Picnic

Comments on No Picnic Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Sep 12, 2008

I've recently (within the past week) done Shit or Go Blind and No Picnic, and there is a cable covered with plastic that is looped around the tree that is on the ledge where the climbs end. The cable has a new Quik-Link attached to it.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jul 11, 2009

A nice happy climb at the start of the Trapps. After the first 20 feet, the gear is plentiful and solid. Climb up to the roof, pull it and then up the steeper face to the tree. Watch out for the rocking block below the roof.
By Joe Ludlow
Jun 9, 2010

I could have sworn that this route was at one point rated a 5.3+....

The only 5.3 with a little roof on it ;)
By doligo
Jun 10, 2010

Joe, how about Easy V - it is rated 5.2+ in Todd Swain's book (5.3 in Grey Dick) and has a trickier roof than one of No Picnic
By SethG
May 11, 2011

This was much nicer than I thought it would be. Good little climb.
By kenr
Mar 22, 2012

Nice overhang/steep section, big positive holds all the way thru it. Too bad that section is not longer (like so many nice things around the Uberfall). I did not find any "sandy" holds mentioned in one guidebook.

1 or 2 more single strenuous moves in it, where the feet are not good, or you have to step fairly high which momentarily pushes your butt out from the rock. Barely noticeable if you're strong + confident + move thru it quickly -- but very noticeable if you're not. Those 1 or 2 single moves really do require some strength in arms or fingers -- might seem "unfair" that good technique isn't enough on a 5.5

First 20-25 feet (significantly easier then 5.5) unprotected, above that seemed well-protected all the way with a range of cams in horizontals (normal Gunks stuff). The left-facing corner can be avoided, taking a direct line (unprotected?) up to the overhang, a bit harder and bit more interesting, can play with it after get a rope to the top.
By J. Serpico
From: Saratoga County, NY
Mar 28, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Rated 5.4 in Swain, I always felt this was more like a 5.5.

The roof move is a bit awkward (requires more strength than technique) , it can sometimes be a bit dirty. I also don't find the gear great below the roof. Above it both the climbing and gear are a grade or two better, though it is still steep.
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
May 19, 2015

I also don't find the gear great below the roof.

When your chin is level with the roof, reach out left and you can get a good cam.
By Kurtz
Nov 19, 2016

A bit stiff for the grade but, overall, I really liked it. The crux overhang is not easy to sew up since the horizontals are shallow. A small nut fits nicely in the thin vertical crack but it may not feel bomber to a 5.5 leader.

*** There is now a lovely set of rapp chains at the top. The top-out is roped off to allow the vegetation to recover. ***

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About