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No Picnic for Old Men 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1400', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Steve Arsenault-John Bouchard-1972
Page Views: 955
Submitted By: stephen arsenault on Sep 13, 2013

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Route is just left of the Golden Dihedral which ar...

Description 

I wanted to add this existing route, put in back in 1972, since there may be some confusion. In the 1994, Kelsey guidebook, it was called "North Buttress Left". In the new guidebook, (2013), it is re-named "No Picnic for Old Men".
In 2011, I repeated the route with Jim Donini, and Joe Kelsey was camping with us. He suggested I re-name the route, which seemed appropriate, at the time; hence the new name.
I might add that Joe Kelsey named it as a "classic" route, for it's grade, in both guidebooks. It could use some cleaning on the 1st few pitches, due to grass growing out of the cracks. The crux pitch and above is clean of vegetation.

Location 

This route is the next crack system, to the left of the Golden Dihedral Route. There is an obvious crack system, in between these 2 routes, but it blanks out, about 2/3rd up the face.

Protection 

Standard rack, up to 3" cam. There are NO bolts on this route.


Photos of No Picnic for Old Men Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim and Steve low on the route in 2011
Jim and Steve low on the route in 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Couple of old guys having a picnic before the clim...
Couple of old guys having a picnic before the clim...

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