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No One Knows 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 600
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Mar 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

A great traversing face climb that sometimes suffers from seepage. Sit start on two crimps with a good left foot (use the upper hold of the two out left). The right crimp used to be bigger, but you only need it to get off the ground. Smear your right foot in the small scoop, pull off the ground and then bump out right to the sloper. Twist your left toe into a toe hook/dropknee and use body tension to cross left hand up to the diagonal edges. Get your feet back underneath you and climb straight up to a hidden jug out right. Topout.

Starting matched on the sloper is V5, awkward, and nowhere near as cool.

Location 

This problem is on the face of the Trailside boulder between the Method Boulder and General Lee. Downclimb to the left.

Protection 

Pad


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By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
Sep 26, 2010

Bad news. The second crimp on the problem has broken. I don't know how, but it was gone when some friends and I were trying it today.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
Sep 27, 2010

Damn... that sucks :( I really liked this problem
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Bangor, ME
Nov 29, 2010

The broken crimp doesn't change the problem any.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Nov 29, 2010

How do you start it now? I know you can start it off the sloper at V5 but I though starting off the crimps were way better.
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Bangor, ME
Nov 29, 2010

Updated the description for you...
By Graham O.
Jul 21, 2016

Is this the dyno problem that goes at v3 in Kemple's guide? I remember Keith saying that this is a stiff v3 that stand starts on weirdly placed crimps and hucks to a sloper. Doesn't seem to be the case according to the description. Maybe, I heard him wrong; Keith's Pawtuckaway knowledge is very rarely incorrect!
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jul 21, 2016
rating: V6 7A

In this case it is wrong. This is the problem to the right of the v3 you're talking about. It starts in the middle of the face.
By Graham O.
Aug 7, 2016

Okay, thanks!
By Brad Fauteux
From: Hopkinton, NH
Oct 4, 2016
rating: V5 6C

What is the v3 called? Blew it on the lip about 10 times. Might be time for a rest day.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 5, 2016
rating: V6 7A

It's called, appropriately, 'Give It Up'.