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(9) New School Wall
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Dad's Nuts T 
Gophers Gone Wild S 
No Nuts S 
Numb Nuts S 
Small Nuts T,S 

No Nuts 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Karl & Martin Seidenschmid ~ 5/08
Page Views: 1,839
Submitted By: Dustin Brubaker on May 22, 2009

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Climb right of tree, on porous rock, to large ledge. Pull through large dihedral, then traverse right onto face. Romp to top.


Starts right of mossy buttress, 20ft up & right from 'Small Nuts'.



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By Ebb Ebbing
From: Vancouver, WA
May 19, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Caution! Watch your rope length. The first time we climbed this, what we thought was a 60m rope didn't quite make it all the way to the ground when lowering on belay (but it was only a matter of a few feet). The belayer needed to take a couple steps up the start of the route to get the climber to the ground. More recently however, (climbing with a brand new 60m rope) we had at least 10 - 15 feet of rope left with both of us on the ground.
By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
Sep 10, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I'm not sure what time of year this is likely to be an issue, but be aware that there's a small trickle of water that runs right over the crux holds and slimes up the lichen/moss that's on them. This can make for a pretty heady lead, since you have to traverse right through these moves and will swing a bit if you slip off.

If memory serves you can see this sludge from the ground so I'd look for it before heading up.
By Brunt Tornton
From: NH
May 8, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I wouldn't say PG13...but probably not a good intro to the grade on lead. Falling onto one of the several ledges on this route would not be very fun.
By Mitch Jacky
From: Portland, OR
Dec 13, 2015

A really heady 5.9 but there it gets to be a bit of a thriller.

Despite the threat of taking a fall into tons of pointy ledges and blocks this is a very fun climb.

Make sure your rope is at least 60m and take note that your belay spot is on a fairly steep incline.

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